Pocket watch · Astronomical dress watch

Thomas Engel for Zenith Astronomical Dress Watch No. 18

Partially verified

This astronomical dress watch, identified as number 18, was produced by Thomas Engel for Zenith around 1983. It is crafted from 18K gold and features a keyless winding mechanism. The watch measures 50 mm in diameter. Its silver dial displays radial Roman chapters, an outer minute track, and an engine-turned center. A subsidiary seconds dial incorporates an aperture for moon phases. The timepiece is driven by a 40 mm rhodium-plated movement, which includes 17 jewels, a straight-line lever escapement, a monometallic balance, and a swan-neck micrometer regulator for precision adjustment. The case design is of the three-body Empire style, featuring a screw-down back decorated with spiral engine-turning, surrounded by a barleycorn pattern border. The watch utilizes a ball-type swiveling pendant that functions as the winding crown. Both the dial and case are signed, and the movement bears a Zenith engraving.

A detailed view of the Thomas Engel for Zenith astronomical dress watch featuring the Roman numeral dial, moon phase aperture, and the 18K gold Empire-style case. — Antiquorum. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source: catalog.antiquorum.swiss
Category: Pocket watch · Astronomical dress watch
Maker / attribution: Thomas Engel
Reference: Not recorded
Catalogue / lot identifier: 420
Source-reported date: circa 1983
Source-reported place: Not established
Source-reported serial: 18

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and Dial Construction

The watch features a three-body 'Empire' style case constructed from 18K gold. The rear of the case is secured by a screw-down cover, which is finished with a spiral engine-turned decoration. The outer border of this back cover is further detailed with barleycorn engine-turning. The bezel and case band are polished to contrast with the textured back. The watch is suspended by a ball-type swiveling pendant that also operates as the winding crown for the keyless mechanism.

The silver dial is marked with radial Roman numerals for the hours and includes an outer track for minute divisions. The center of the dial features engine-turning, contributing to the watch's decorative appearance. Time is indicated by blued steel Breguet-style hands. Positioned at the bottom of the dial is a subsidiary seconds display that serves as the location for an astronomical moon phase aperture.

Evidence for this section

“Three-body, "Empire", screw-down back cover decorated with engine-turning in a spiral pattern”
“the borderwith Barley corn engine-turning, polished band and bezel”
“Silver, radial Roman chapters, outer minute dot divisions, engine-turned and whitened center”
“sidiaryseconds with an aperture for phases of the moon”

Movement and Escapement

The interior of the watch contains a 40 mm diameter movement finished in rhodium plating. The plates are decorated with fausses-côtes, a traditional method of striping found on high-grade timepieces. The mechanism operates on 17 jewels and incorporates a straight-line lever escapement. The timing system consists of a monometallic balance paired with a self-compensating balance spring that features an outer terminal curve.

For fine adjustments, the movement is equipped with a swan-neck micrometer regulator. This component allows for the delicate manipulation of the timing of the balance spring. The movement is engraved with the Zenith name, indicating the collaboration between the maker and the brand for this specific production.

Evidence for this section

“40 mm, rhodium-plated,"fausses-côtes" decoration, 17 jewels”
“straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance”
“self-compensatingbalance spring with outer terminal curve, "swan-neck" micrometer regulator”
“Movement engraved Zenith.”

Condition Report

The auction description reports an overall condition grading of AA, indicating that the piece is in very good condition. This grade applies to the watch as a collective object. The report provides separate condition ratings for individual components to specify the state of preservation for the case, movement, and dial.

The auctioneer confirms that the case and dial both bear the required signatures associated with the production of the timepiece.

Evidence for this section

“Grading System Grade: AA Very good”
“Case: 2 Very good Movement: 2 Very good Dial: 2”
“Dial and case signed.”

Open research questions

What is the total number of watches produced by Thomas Engel for Zenith within this specific series?
Does the 'Empire' case designation refer to a specific custom case-making workshop utilized by Thomas Engel in the 1980s?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Thomas Engel for Zenith Astronomical Dress Watch No. 18
Field	Source-reported value	Source quotation
Maker	Thomas Engel	“Thomas Engel”
Movement Serial	5537379	“Zenith, No. 5537379”
Case Number	18	“No. 18”
Material	18K Gold	“18K gold”
Movement Decoration	Fausses-côtes	“rhodium-plated,"fausses-côtes" decoration”
Regulator	Swan-neck	“swan-neck" micrometer regulator”
Dimensions	50 mm diameter	“Diam. 50. mm.”

Visible details

Moon phase aperture located within the subsidiary seconds dial.
Blued steel Breguet hands for hour and minute indication.
Engine-turned spiral pattern on the case back exterior.
Ball-type pendant crown positioned at 12 o'clock.

Research qualifications

The country of manufacture is not explicitly stated in the source.
The exact production methodology for the Zenith-signed movement remains unverified by historical technical documentation.

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

Thomas Engel, No. 18, made for Zenith, No. 5537379. Produced circa 1983. Very fine and rare 18K gold, keyless, astronomical "Chronomètre" dress watch with phases of the moon.

Reviewed 2026-10-26 · Record 76beea8819

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.