Wristwatch · Cushion wristwatch

Oyster Watch Co. Abercrombie & Fitch cushion wristwatch

Partially verified

This cushion-cased manual-wind wristwatch is attributed by the auction source to Oyster Watch Co. and dated to circa 1927. The auction catalog states the inner case back is stamped with serial number 00617 and bears the proprietary Snowite trademark, though later specifications in the listing also note stainless steel. The cream-toned dial is signed 'ABERCROMBIE & FITCH CO. / OYSTER' and features oversized Arabic numerals, a railway minute track, a subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o'clock, and cathedral hands. According to the source, the timepiece houses a 15-jewel, 3-adjustment movement built on an FHF ebauche, which is reported as not running due to a need for a new mainspring.

Front view of the Oyster Watch Co. Abercrombie & Fitch cushion wristwatch with cream dial and leather strap — Hess Fine Auctions. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source: www.invaluable.com
Category: Wristwatch · Cushion wristwatch
Maker / attribution: Oyster Watch Co.
Reference: Not recorded
Catalogue / lot identifier: 11004
Source-reported date: Circa 1927
Country: Switzerland
Source-reported serial: 00617

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case Construction and Markings

The timepiece is housed in a cushion-shaped case with a fluted bezel and an onion-style screw-down winding crown. The auction source provides conflicting descriptors for the metal, identifying it both as 'Snowite'—a proprietary, chemically treated chrome-plated zinc and nickel alloy—and elsewhere as 'Stainless Steel.'

The interior of the case back is recorded as stamped with the serial number '00617.' The documentation further notes the presence of a 'SNOWITE' trademark within a diamond logo, alongside references to various British, Swiss, and U.S. patents.

Evidence for this section

“Case Material: Proprietary "Snowite" tarnish-resistant white alloy”
“Case Metal: Stainless Steel”
“Case Serial Number: 00617”
“The caseback features the highly coveted, crisp "SNOWITE" trademark nestled inside its original diamond logo.”

Dial and Hands

The light cream-toned dial is signed 'ABERCROMBIE & FITCH CO. / OYSTER' above the 6 o'clock position. It features oversized Arabic numerals, an outer railway-style minute track, and a subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o'clock.

The watch is fitted with skeletonized cathedral-style hands containing dark infill. The source notes that the luminous material on the dial has darkened to a charcoal hue.

Evidence for this section

“Light cream-toned dial featuring dark Arabic numeral hour markers, an outer railway minute track, and a subsidiary seconds subdial at 6 o'clock”
“Skeletonized cathedral-style hour and minute hands showing dark infill”
“All Words on Dial: Abercrombie & Fitch Co. Oyster”

Movement and Operational Status

The watch utilizes a 15-jewel manual-wind movement on an FHF (Fontainemelon) ebauche, signed by the Oyster Watch Co.

There are contradictory statements regarding the mechanical condition of the watch, with the documentation stating both that it is 'running and ticking strongly' and 'not running' due to the need for a new mainspring.

Evidence for this section

“Movement: 15 Jewels, 3 Adjustments, specialized original FHF (Fontainemelon) base ebauche, signed Oyster Watch Co.”
“Movement is not running and will need the attention of a watch maker”
“Movement: Exceptionally clean, running, and ticking strongly.”

Open research questions

Is the case material physically marked as 'Snowite' or 'Stainless Steel'?
Can the discrepancy between the 21mm and 31mm dimension claims be resolved through physical measurement?
What is the actual functional status of the movement?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Oyster Watch Co. Abercrombie & Fitch cushion wristwatch
Field	Source-reported value	Source quotation
Case serial	00617	“Case Serial Number: 00617”
Dial inscription	Abercrombie & Fitch Co. Oyster	“All Words on Dial: Abercrombie & Fitch Co. Oyster”
Movement calibre details	15 Jewels, 3 Adjustments, FHF base	“Movement: 15 Jewels, 3 Adjustments, specialized original FHF (Fontainemelon) base ebauche, signed Oyster Watch Co.”
Case material claim	Proprietary Snowite alloy	“Case Material: Proprietary "Snowite" tarnish-resistant white alloy”
Running status	Not running / needs new mainspring	“Movement is not running and will need the attention of a watch maker”
Dated	Circa 1927 / 1928	“Circa: Late 1927 / Early 1928”

Visible details

Cushion-shaped metallic case with fluted bezel and an onion-style screw-down winding crown at 3 o'clock
Light cream-toned dial featuring dark Arabic numeral hour markers, an outer railway minute track, and a subsidiary seconds subdial at 6 o'clock
Dial signed arched 'ABERCROMBIE & FITCH CO.' above 'OYSTER' below the 12 o'clock position
Skeletonized cathedral-style hour and minute hands showing dark infill
Fitted to a dark textured leather two-piece strap with visible stitching
Wear, tarnishing, and edge marks visible on the case and around the bezel rim

Research qualifications

Listing contains conflicting dimensions (stated as 21mm in narrative, 31mm in data block) and metal descriptors (Snowite alloy vs. stainless steel)
Movement condition is conflictingly described as both 'running, and ticking strongly' and 'Movement Running: No ... Needs a new mainspring'
Movement, inner case back, and case back markings are documented by source text but not visible in the supplied photograph

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

At Auction: Curious & rare Rolex Oyster Watch Co Abercrombie & Fitch Wrist Watch Circa 1927 Incredibly Low Serial 00617

Reviewed 2026-10-25 · Record ec31b2542f

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.