Pocket watch · Ring watch

Octagonal Pearl-Set Ring Watch

Partially verified

The rectangular case features canted corners and is decorated with a border of pearls. The dial plate consists of translucent dark blue enamel accented with gold laurel branches. It displays a small white enamel dial with Arabic numerals and minute divisions, alongside an aperture revealing the balance, which is set with diamonds and rotates against a polished steel plate. The watch measures 33 mm in length and 22 mm in width. It is powered by a rectangular brass movement, measuring 3 x 14 mm, equipped with a fixed barrel and a cylinder escapement featuring a brass escape wheel, a five-armed diamond-set balance, and a flat balance spring. A sliding panel at the bottom of the case allows access to the winding, setting, and regulating mechanisms.

An 18K gold octagonal ring watch with pearl-set bezel, featuring a translucent blue enamel dial plate with gold laurel branches, an Arabic numeral dial, and an aperture for the diamond-set balance. — Antiquorum. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source: catalog.antiquorum.swiss
Category: Pocket watch · Ring watch
Maker / attribution: Unsigned, probably Pierre Simon Gounouilhou
Reference: Not recorded
Catalogue / lot identifier: 397
Source-reported date: circa 1820
Source-reported place: Switzerland (Geneva)

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and Exterior Construction

The timepiece is housed in an 18K gold octagonal case. Its design is rectangular with canted corners, specifically engineered to house the movement within the top section. The bezel is fixed with a border of pearls. The reverse or bottom portion includes a polished sliding panel that provides access to the watch's winding, setting, and regulating holes. This 18K gold octagonal ring watch is attributed to Geneva-based maker Pierre Simon Gounouilhou, dating to circa 1820.

The ring band itself is integrated with the watch head through solid, extended triangular ends. These ends connect the watch assembly to the finger shank, serving as the mounting point for the watch head. The total length of the case is 33 mm with a width of 22 mm.

Evidence for this section

“Rectangular with canted corners, the top housing the watch, screwed pearl-set bezel”
“polished sliding panel at the bottom to reveal the winding, setting, and regulating holes”
“shank with solid extended triangular ends”

Dial and Visual Features

The dial area is defined by a rectangular plate with canted corners finished in translucent dark blue enamel. This enamel surface is adorned with gold laurel branches. The layout is asymmetric, featuring a small white enamel dial positioned in the lower section, displaying Arabic numerals and outer minute dot divisions. Gold 'spade' hands indicate the time.

A functional design element is located in the upper portion of the enamel plate, where an aperture reveals the balance. This balance is set with diamonds and rotates against a polished steel plate, allowing the movement of the escapement to be seen while the watch is worn.

Evidence for this section

“translucent dark blue enamel plate decorated with gold laurel branches”
“in the upper part an aperture for the balance spinning against a polished steel plate”
“in the lower part small white unusually positioned enamel dial with Arabic num-erals and outer minute dot divisions”

Movement and Technical Specifications

The movement is a rectangular brass mechanism measuring 3 mm by 14 mm. It features a fixed barrel and operates using a cylinder escapement with a brass escape wheel. The timekeeping regulation is managed by a flat balance spring.

A notable component of the movement is the balance, which possesses five spiral arms and is set with diamonds. The entire assembly fits within the confines of the ring-mounted case to accommodate the compact dimensions necessary for a wearable ring watch of this period.

Evidence for this section

“3 x 14 mm., brass, rectangular with canted corners”
“fixed barrel, cylinder escapement, brass escape wheel”
“plain diamond-set balance with five spiral arms, flat balance spring”

Open research questions

Are there any maker's marks or hallmarks hidden beneath the sliding panel or on the inside of the shank?
Is the diamond-setting on the balance wheel original to the 1820 production, or was it a later enhancement?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Octagonal Pearl-Set Ring Watch
Field	Source-reported value	Source quotation
Maker	Unsigned, probably Pierre Simon Gounouilhou	“Unsigned, Geneva, probably Pierre Simon Gounouilhou”
Material	18K gold	“18K gold octagonal pearl-set ring watch”
Dimensions	33 mm x 22 mm	“Length 33 mm., width 22 mm.”
Escapement	Cylinder	“cylinder escapement”
Movement dimensions	3 x 14 mm	“3 x 14 mm., brass”
Case design	Rectangular with canted corners	“Rectangular with canted corners, the top housing the watch”
Balance	Diamond-set, five-armed	“plain diamond-set balance with five spiral arms”

Visible details

Translucent blue enamel dial plate with gold floral application
Visible diamond-set balance wheel spinning against a steel plate
Outer border of set pearls surrounding the octagonal watch head
Shank features extended triangular terminals

Research qualifications

Attribution to Pierre Simon Gounouilhou is cited as 'probably' rather than certain
The watch is unsigned, leaving the specific origin unconfirmed by maker's mark

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

Unsigned, Geneva, probably Pierre Simon Gounouilhou, circa 1820.Very fine 18K gold octagonal pearl-set ring watch with visible diamond-set balance.

Reviewed 2026-10-26 · Record b010e87f33

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.