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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Wristwatch · Diver's watch

IWC Aquatimer Reference 816 AD

Partially verified

This IWC Aquatimer reference 816 AD is a vintage automatic diver's wristwatch featuring a turquoise-grey gradient dial with tritium indexes. Housed in a 40 x 42 mm steel case, it includes a screw-down back with an embossed submarine emblem and dual crowns: one for setting time and one for operating the internal rotating diving bezel. The watch is powered by the IWC calibre 8541 automatic movement, which incorporates the proprietary Pellaton winding system. It is presented on a folded steel bracelet by Gay Frères. Distinguished by its gradient blue dial and compressor-style architecture, the watch was designed for depth-rated water resistance. The luminous material on the hands and indexes is noted for its lemon-colored patina, and the crowns feature the characteristic IWC fish logo, which the auction source associates with historical waterproof models; it does not verify present water resistance.

A vintage IWC Aquatimer reference 816 AD diver's wristwatch, circa 1970, with a turquoise-grey gradient dial and Gay Frères bracelet.
A vintage IWC Aquatimer reference 816 AD diver's wristwatch, circa 1970, with a turquoise-grey gradient dial and Gay Frères bracelet. — Auktionen Dr. Crott. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
www.invaluable.com
Category
Wristwatch · Diver's watch
Maker / attribution
IWC
Reference
816 AD
Catalogue / lot identifier
289
Source-reported date
circa 1970
Country
Schweiz
Source-reported serial
2014527

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and Configuration

The auction source describes the following: This IWC Aquatimer reference 816 AD is presented in a 40 x 42 mm steel case. It features a dual-crown architecture, where the upper crown operates the internal bezel and the lower crown is used for manually setting the time.

The auction source describes the following: The case features a screw-down back with an embossed submarine emblem. The design includes an inner super compressor area intended to increase watertightness under pressure, with a depth rating of 300 meters. Both crowns feature the IWC fish logo, which the source identifies as a marker used for waterproof watches.

Evidence for this section
  • “Dimensions 40 x 42 mm”
  • “Case: Steel, screw back with embossed submarine emblem”
  • “crown for turnable bezel”
  • “the heavy case back possesses an inner super compressor area, which increases watertightness in greater depth”
  • “Both crowns bear the fish logo used by IWC for waterproof watches”

Dial and Luminous Material

The dial features a color gradient transitioning from a grey/green exterior to a lighter, turquoise hue toward the center. It includes tritium indexes and an internal rotating bezel positioned under the crystal.

The luminous material on the hands and indexes is noted as having acquired a fresh lemon color.

Evidence for this section
  • “Turquoise-grey with gradient to turquoise-blue”
  • “This timepiece features a grey/green dial, which changes to a lighter, almost turquoise hue towards the centre”
  • “tritium indexes”
  • “This bezel is positioned directly on the edge of the dial under the crystal”
  • “The luminous material on the hands and indexes has acquired a fresh lemon colour”

Movement and Bracelet

The auction source describes the following: The watch is powered by the automatic IWC calibre 8541, which incorporates the Pellaton winding system. This movement is noted as also being used for the IWC Ingenieur range.

The auction source describes the following: The timepiece is presented on a folded steel bracelet by Gay Frères, with a total length of 185 mm.

Evidence for this section
  • “Inside the watch beats the proprietary IWC calibre 8541 with the legendary Pellaton winding system”
  • “folded steel bracelet by Gay Frères, total length 185 mm”

Open research questions

  • What is the current mechanical functionality of the Pellaton winding system and the internal bezel?
  • Can the specific production date be verified through IWC serial records?
  • Are there records of maintenance or component replacement for the movement or bracelet?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for IWC Aquatimer Reference 816 AD
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
Reference816 AD“Ref. 816 AD”
Case Number2014527“Case No. 2014527”
Movement Calibre8541“Cal. 8541”
Dimensions40 x 42 mm“Dimensions 40 x 42 mm”
BraceletGay Frères“folded steel bracelet by Gay Frères”
Movement Number1979300“Movm. No. 1979300”
Approximate Datecirca 1970“circa 1970”
Case Number2014527“Case No. 2014527”
Movement Number1979300“Movm. No. 1979300”
Calibre Variant8541B“Cal. 8541B”

Visible details

  • Dual crown configuration typical of compressor-style cases
  • Turquoise-grey gradient dial with date aperture at 3 o'clock
  • Internal rotating diving bezel visible under crystal
  • Rice-grain pattern steel bracelet

Research qualifications

  • Internal movement condition and functionality are not confirmed by photography
  • The case back and submarine emblem mentioned in the source are not visible in the provided imagery
  • The historical 300-metre rating and compressor description are auction-source claims, not a current pressure test or independent construction assessment.

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

IWC / Intern. Watch Co. - Turquoise Aquatimer

Reviewed 2026-10-26 · Record c04adad4f6

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.

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