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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Wristwatch · Flying tourbillon wristwatch

Chanel Première Flying Tourbillon For Only Watch

Partially verified

This Chanel Première Flying Tourbillon is a unique edition created for the Only Watch auction. The watch features an 18-carat white gold case set with 169 diamonds totaling approximately 2.20 carats, complemented by a black high-tech ceramic bezel. The movement was developed specifically for Chanel by Renaud et Papi (APRP SA). The dial includes a flying tourbillon complication designed with a camellia motif, which serves as an homage to the flower associated with Mademoiselle Chanel. The tourbillon carriage lacks an upper bridge, providing the appearance of rotation in a weightless state. The timepiece is accompanied by an 18-carat white gold double folding buckle set with 30 brilliant-cut diamonds. While presented on a black satin strap, the watch is also supplied with a black alligator leather strap.

Front view of the Chanel Première Flying Tourbillon featuring a black dial and camellia-motif tourbillon carriage.
Front view of the Chanel Première Flying Tourbillon featuring a black dial and camellia-motif tourbillon carriage. — Antiquorum. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
catalog.antiquorum.swiss
Category
Wristwatch · Flying tourbillon wristwatch
Maker / attribution
Chanel
Reference
Not recorded
Catalogue / lot identifier
Lot 5
Source-reported date
2012
Source-reported place
Switzerland

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and Aesthetic Design

The case of the Chanel Première Flying Tourbillon is constructed from 18-carat white gold and set with 169 diamonds, amounting to approximately 2.20 carats. A black high-tech ceramic bezel surrounds the dial. The overall case geometry is octagonal, a design element originally introduced with the first Première watch in 1987, inspired by the shape of the Place Vendôme and the stopper of the No.5 perfume bottle.

The watch is secured to the wrist via an 18-carat white gold double folding buckle that is further decorated with 30 brilliant-cut diamonds. The watch is sold with a black alligator strap and is presented on a black satin strap.

Evidence for this section
  • “18-carat white gold set with 169 diamonds (~2.20 carats) with a black high-tech ceramic bezel”
  • “Its shape was inspired by the octagonal geometry of the Place Vendôme and echoed in the No.5 perfume bottle stopper.”
  • “18-carat white gold double folding buckle set with 30 brilliant-cut diamonds”

Movement and Complication

The watch is powered by a mechanical movement developed through a collaboration between Chanel and Renaud & Papi (APRP SA), which functions as the research and development branch of Audemars Piguet. The primary complication is a flying tourbillon, which is situated on the dial.

The carriage of the tourbillon is decorated with a camellia motif, a flower linked to the history of Mademoiselle Chanel. As a flying tourbillon, the mechanism is designed without an upper bridge, intended to create the visual effect of the assembly rotating in a weightless state.

Evidence for this section
  • “Movement exclusively developed for CHANEL by Renaud et Papi (APRP SA).”
  • “Having no upper bridge, the carriage decorated with a camellia appears to be rotating in a weightless state.”
  • “this flying tourbillon decorated with the motif of the camellia, a tribute to Mademoiselle Chanel?s favorite flower”

Provenance and History

This specific timepiece is identified as a unique edition created specifically for the Only Watch charitable auction. The model was introduced in 2012 to mark the 25th anniversary of the Première collection, allowing for the inclusion of high mechanical complications within the line.

The Première Flying Tourbillon was awarded the 'Ladies watch' prize at the 12th Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG).

Evidence for this section
  • “Unique edition in 18-carat white gold set with 169 diamonds (~2.20 carats) with a black high-tech ceramic bezel exclusively created for Only Watch.”
  • “In 2012, on the occasion of its 25th anniversary, CHANEL created the Première Flying Tourbillon”
  • “the Première Flying Tourbillon watch, elected best in the ?Ladies watch? prize category.”

Open research questions

  • What is the specific movement caliber number for this unique edition?
  • Are there any specific markings on the case back confirming the 'Unique Edition' status for Only Watch?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Chanel Première Flying Tourbillon For Only Watch
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
MakerChanel“CHANEL”
Movement DeveloperRenaud et Papi (APRP SA)“Movement exclusively developed for CHANEL by Renaud et Papi (APRP SA).”
Case Material18-carat white gold“18-carat white gold”
Diamond Count169 diamonds on case, 30 on buckle“set with 169 diamonds (~2.20 carats)”
BezelBlack high-tech ceramic“black high-tech ceramic bezel”
Tourbillon MotifCamellia“this flying tourbillon decorated with the motif of the camellia”
Buckle18-carat white gold double folding buckle“18-carat white gold double folding buckle set with 30 brilliant-cut diamonds”

Visible details

  • Octagonal case profile influenced by the Place Vendôme
  • Camellia-shaped flying tourbillon cage with central diamond setting
  • Crown set with brilliant-cut diamonds

Research qualifications

  • Specific diamond clarity and color grades are not provided
  • Full technical specifications for the movement caliber are not detailed

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

CHANEL, PREMIÈRE FLYING TOURBILON FOR ONLY WATCH CHANEL, Première Flying Tourbillon, Movement exclusively developed for CHANEL by Renaud et Papi (APRP SA). Unique edition in 18-carat white gold set with 169 diamonds (~2.20 carats) with a black high-tech ceramic bezel exclusively created for Only Watch. High feminine complication, this flying tourbillon decorated with the motif of the camellia, a tribute to Mademoiselle Chanel's favorite flower, beats away discreetly and almost secretly at the heart of the Première watch. Having no upper bridge, the carriage decorated with a camellia appears to be rotating in a weightless state. BRACELET Sold on a black alligator strap but presented on a black satin strap. 18-carat white gold double folding buckle set with 30 brilliant-cut diamonds

Reviewed 2026-10-26 · Record d18f361d19

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.

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