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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Wristwatch · Ring watch

Cartier New York 14k yellow gold ring watch

Partially verified

This object is a Cartier New York ring watch, dating to circa 1937. It features a 14k yellow gold construction with a concealed dial design, utilizing a hinged cover with rounded edges to protect the silvered watch face. The dial is decorated with gilded Arabic numerals and pointed baton indices, along with gilded epée hands. The piece is powered by a 6¼''' rear-wound mechanical movement, produced by LeCoultre Co. in Switzerland. This caliber contains 16 jewels, a lever escapement, and an annular balance fitted with poising screws. The functional integration includes a toothed-edge rear winder built into the gold ring shank, which features a dedicated aperture for winding access. The ring measures 18 mm by 16 mm and is sized as a US 5¾, with external evidence consisting of various Swiss gold assay marks, including the lynx head and an Edmond Jaeger punch mark.

Front view of the Cartier New York ring watch with the hinged cover in the open position.
Front view of the Cartier New York ring watch with the hinged cover in the open position. — Sotheby's, via Invaluable. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
orbiscollectibles.com
Category
Wristwatch · Ring watch
Maker / attribution
LeCoultre Co. (retailer: Cartier New York)
Reference
Not recorded
Catalogue / lot identifier
Source URL identifies the listing
Source-reported date
Circa 1937
Source-reported place
Switzerland
Source-reported serial
76'479

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Design and Construction

The ring watch consists of a 14k yellow gold band measuring 18 mm by 16 mm and sized at a US 5¾. The design features a concealed dial protected by a hinged cover with rounded edges. When opened, the watch face presents a silvered dial, which is marked with gilded Arabic numerals for the primary indices and pointed baton markers for the remaining positions. The time is indicated by gilded epée hands.

The winding mechanism is built directly into the ring shank. This includes a toothed-edge rear winder that is accessible through a specific aperture cut into the gold band of the ring. This configuration allows for the winding of the movement while the watch is worn or held in a manner that exposes the interior of the shank.

Evidence for this section
  • “the piece features a concealed dial design, where a hinged cover with rounded edges protects the silvered watch face”
  • “The functional design includes a toothed-edge rear winder integrated into the gold ring shank, featuring a specific aperture for winding access.”

Movement and Technical Specifications

The timepiece is powered by a Swiss-made mechanical movement, identified as a 6¼''' caliber, manufactured by LeCoultre Co. The movement contains 16 jewels and operates with a lever escapement. Regulation and timing are managed by an annular balance wheel that is equipped with poising screws.

The identification of the movement is supported by the presence of specific marks on the object.

Evidence for this section
  • “powered by a 6¼’’’ rear-wound mechanical movement manufactured by LeCoultre Co. in Switzerland.”
  • “This intricate caliber comprises 16 jewels, a lever escapement, and an annular balance with poising screws.”

Marks and Identification

The object bears several assay and maker marks denoting its material composition and origin. These include the Swiss lynx head mark, a hallmark utilized to denote gold quality, and an EJ flag-form 14k stamp. Additionally, an Edmond Jaeger punch mark is present, identifying the involvement of the maker in the construction of the gold housing.

The movement itself is identified by the number 76'479. The attribution to Cartier New York as the retailer is stated in the auction listing, which classifies the object as a New York retailed piece originating circa 1937. These marks serve as the primary physical identifiers for the provenance and technical specifications of this ring watch.

Evidence for this section
  • “bears various Swiss gold assay marks, including the lynx head and the Edmond Jaeger punch mark.”
  • “Movement number 76'479”
  • “New York retailed | A yellow gold ring watch with concealed dial, Circa 1937”

Open research questions

  • What is the specific relationship between the Edmond Jaeger punch mark and the retailers' branding practices at Cartier New York in the 1930s?
  • Are there surviving archival records from LeCoultre that document the serial number 76'479 specifically for this ring watch model?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Cartier New York 14k yellow gold ring watch
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
Material14k yellow gold“14k yellow gold”
Dimensions18 mm x 16 mm“Measuring 18 mm by 16 mm”
Ring sizeUS 5¾“sized as a US 5¾”
MakerLeCoultre Co.“manufactured by LeCoultre Co. in Switzerland”
Movement number76'479“Movement number 76'479”
MarksSwiss lynx head, EJ flag-form, Edmond Jaeger punch“Swiss gold assay marks, including the lynx head and the Edmond Jaeger punch mark.”
Dial descriptionSilvered with gilded numerals“the dial displays gilded Arabic numerals and pointed baton indices”

Visible details

  • Hinged cover concealing the silvered dial
  • Toothed-edge rear winding mechanism integrated into the ring shank
  • Gilded Arabic numerals at 12, 3, 6, and 9
  • Gilded epée style hands

Research qualifications

  • Classification is not fully established
  • The listing is supplementary evidence and not authentication

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

Cartier New York 14k yellow gold ring watch with concealed dial

Reviewed 2026-11-02 · Record 4144de9bdc

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.

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