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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Wristwatch · Concealed-dial wristwatch

Cartier Bébé Guillotine Wristwatch

Partially verified

This Cartier 'Bébé Guillotine' wristwatch, dating to the mid-1930s, features a unique concealed-dial mechanism. Originally conceived as a purse watch, this example was modified by Cartier Paris for the English market, characterized by its 18K yellow gold two-body case with black enamel accents and Roman numerals on the bezel. When the ends are compressed, dual shutters retract to reveal the dial. The watch is powered by a rhodium-plated, 19-jewel movement produced by European Watch and Clock Co. Inc., featuring fausses cotes decoration and a straight-line lever escapement. The off-white dial displays a painted minute track and blued steel Breguet hands. This piece is fitted with a deployant clasp in 18K pink gold and reflects a specialized production run where approximately 50 such pieces were adapted as wristwatches and subsequently imported to London, as evidenced by the period hallmarks found on the case.

The Cartier Bébé Guillotine watch shown with its shutters closed (inset) and open, revealing the dial.
The Cartier Bébé Guillotine watch shown with its shutters closed (inset) and open, revealing the dial. — Antiquorum. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
catalog.antiquorum.swiss
Category
Wristwatch · Concealed-dial wristwatch
Maker / attribution
Cartier
Reference
Not recorded
Catalogue / lot identifier
382
Source-reported date
circa 1934-1935
Source-reported place
France
Source-reported serial
23188/27925/1169

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and Dial Design

The watch is constructed with a solid, two-body case finished in 18K yellow gold. A defining feature of this model is the black enamel radial Roman numeral display integrated directly into the bezel. The watch functions as a concealed-dial piece: upon pressing the ends of the case, two internal shutters open to expose the dial beneath.

The dial itself is painted off-white and includes a painted minute track. Time is indicated by blued steel Breguet-style hands. The case includes hooded lugs and is paired with an 18K pink gold deployant clasp.

Evidence for this section
  • “Two-body, solid, polished, bezel with black enamel radial Roman numerals, when the ends are pressed two shutters open revealing the dial, black enamel and gold hooded lugs.”
  • “Painted off-white with painted minute track. Blued steel Breguet hands.”

Movement and Mechanical Specifications

The internal mechanism is a 7 3/4''' movement manufactured by the European Watch and Clock Co. Inc.

Technically, the watch utilizes a straight-line lever escapement and a cut bimetallic balance, managed by a flat blued steel balance spring and an index regulator. It is adjusted to 8 positions. The movement is signed by the European Watch and Clock Co. Inc., while the dial bears the signature of Cartier.

Evidence for this section
  • “the movement by European Watch and Clock Co. Inc.”
  • “7 3/4''', rhodium plated, fausses cotes decoration, 19 jewels, straight line lever escapement, cut bimetallic balance, 8 adjustments, blued steel flat balance spring, index regulator.”

Provenance and Historical Context

This watch belongs to a small production run of approximately 50 pieces modified by Cartier Paris from an original purse watch design into a wristwatch format. These pieces were specifically intended for the English market and imported into London in the 1930s, as confirmed by the presence of English import hallmarks on the case.

The watch is officially identified by its serial number and model designation.

Evidence for this section
  • “Approximately 50 pieces of this kind were modified by Cartier Paris and were sent to Cartier London (import and date English hallmark), and were sold there in the 1930s.”
  • “Grading System Grade: Case: 3-24 Good Slightly chipped Movement: 3* Good Overhaul recommended, at buyer's expense Dial: 3-24-01 Good Slightly chipped”

Open research questions

  • What specific mechanisms allow for the synchronized opening of the dual shutters?
  • Are there variations in the enamel work on the bezel across the known 50-piece production run?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Cartier Bébé Guillotine Wristwatch
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
MakerCartier“Cartier, France, 'Bébé Guillotine'”
Movement MakerEuropean Watch and Clock Co. Inc.“the movement by European Watch and Clock Co. Inc.”
Case Material18K yellow gold“18K yellow gold and black enamel wristwatch”
Dimensions20 x 38 mm“Dim. 20 x 38 mm.”
Movement TypeRhodium plated, 19 jewels“rhodium plated, fausses cotes decoration, 19 jewels”
Serial Numbers23188/27925/1169“No. 23188/ 27925/1169”
Dating1934-5“The case with London import marks for 1934-5.”

Visible details

  • Case features two shutters that open to reveal the dial
  • Bezel decorated with black enamel radial Roman numerals
  • Movement features fausses cotes finishing
  • Movement signed European Watch and Clock Co. Inc.

Research qualifications

  • Movement is reported to require an overhaul
  • Case and dial are noted as having slight chips

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

Cartier Bébé Guillotine Cartier, France, 'Bébé Guillotine', 4 pattes, No. 23188/ 27925/1169, the movement by European Watch and Clock Co. Inc. The case with London import marks for 1934-5. Extremely rare and fine Art Deco 18K yellow gold and black enamel wristwatch with concealed dial. Accompanied by an 18K pink gold deployant clasp.

Reviewed 2026-10-26 · Record aa02ff2000

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.