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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Wristwatch · Dress watch

Audemars Piguet Squared Dresswatch

Partially verified

This vintage Audemars Piguet dress watch features a square 18k yellow gold case measuring 28 x 28 mm. The dial is silver with a vertical brushed finish, featuring applied gold stick markers and stick hands. The watch is powered by a manual-wound calibre 2001 ultra-thin movement. According to the auction description, the watch is accompanied by an 18k yellow-gold pin buckle. It has been serviced by the vendor's watchmaker and is described as an example from the 1960s with a case number in the 23xx range. The design is characterized by its lack of luminescence and its minimalist, architectural aesthetic.

Front view of the Audemars Piguet squared dress watch, showcasing the double-signed dial and 18k yellow gold case.
Front view of the Audemars Piguet squared dress watch, showcasing the double-signed dial and 18k yellow gold case. — Bulang & Sons. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
www.bulangandsons.com
Category
Wristwatch · Dress watch
Maker / attribution
Audemars Piguet
Reference
Not recorded
Catalogue / lot identifier
Source URL identifies the listing
Source-reported date
1960s
Source-reported place
Not established
Source-reported serial
23xx

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and Dial Design

The watch features a compact square case crafted from 18k yellow gold, measuring 28 mm in both length and width. Its design emphasizes simplicity, characterized by an ultra-thin profile and an absence of ornamentation or luminescence on the dial. The silver dial is finished with a vertical brushed texture and features applied gold stick markers that correspond to the gold stick hands.

The dial bears a double signature, incorporating the Audemars Piguet name and the retailer mark of Türler, a firm established in Biel in 1883 with a notable presence in Zürich. This retailer signature is placed at the lower portion of the dial, distinguishing it as a client-specific or market-specific supply from the mid-20th century.

Evidence for this section
  • “The vertical brushed dial is beautifully understated, with applied gold stick markers, crisp black printing and no lume.”
  • “the real collector detail is down on the dial: the second signature of Türler.”

Movement and Specifications

The timepiece is driven by the manual-wound calibre 2001, identified by the source as an ultra-thin movement. The construction of the watch is defined by its dimensions of 28 x 28 mm and the usage of 18k yellow gold for both the case and the associated pin buckle.

The auction description reports that the movement has undergone a full service by the vendor's watchmaker. The watch is accompanied by a leather strap, which the source notes has a width of 20 mm.

Evidence for this section
  • “The watch is powered by the legendary and manual woundcal 2001 ultra thin”
  • “fully serviced by our watch maker.”

Provenance and Identification

The watch is identified by a case number in the 23xx series, which the auction description associates with a date of manufacture during the 1960s. The presence of the Türler signature is described as a detail that adds provenance to the piece, consistent with practices of the mid-20th century when watchmakers provided specifically marked dials for respected retailers.

The watch is sold with an 18k yellow-gold pin buckle which is stated to be an original Audemars Piguet component.

Evidence for this section
  • “Case no. 23xx dating to the 1960’s”
  • “The watch comes on the photographed with leather strap and with an original Audemars Piguet 18k yellow-gold pin buckle fitted”

Open research questions

  • What specific production range does the serial number 23xx correspond to within the Audemars Piguet archives?
  • Are there archival records confirming the original delivery of this case reference to the Türler retailer in the 1960s?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Audemars Piguet Squared Dresswatch
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
MakerAudemars Piguet“Audemars Piguet”
Case material18k yellow gold“solid 18k yellow gold”
Case dimensions28 x 28 mm“28 x 28 mm”
Serial number23xx“Case no. 23xx”
MovementCalibre 2001“cal 2001 ultra thin”
Retailer signatureTürler“double signed Türler”
Dial finishVertical brushed“vertical brushed dial”
Date1960s“dating to the 1960’s”

Visible details

  • Applied gold stick markers on dial
  • Vertical brushed finish on silver dial
  • Square gold case profile
  • Double-signed dial with retailer Türler

Research qualifications

  • The exact year of manufacture is not specified beyond a 1960s attribution
  • The current leather strap is a replacement and not original to the 1960s production

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.