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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Wristwatch · Dress watch

Gents 9ct Gold Favre Leuba Dress Watch

Partially verified

This gentleman's dress wristwatch by Favre-Leuba features a 35 mm nine-carat yellow gold case hallmarked inside the case back for Birmingham, 1974, according to dealer documentation. It features a silvered sunburst dial signed 'FAVRE-LEUBA GENÈVE' with slender baton hour markers and central hands. The seller notes that the signed hand-winding movement lacks retaining screws because it is secured directly by the shaped case. The case back bears an engraved long service inscription from Trico dated 1974 alongside reported unevenness, while the dial, lens, and front case remain in good condition. The watch is fitted with a modern replacement leather strap.

Front view of the Favre-Leuba 9ct gold dress watch on leather strap
Front view of the Favre-Leuba 9ct gold dress watch on leather strap — The Vintage Wrist Watch Company via Antiques Atlas. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
www.antiques-atlas.com
Category
Wristwatch · Dress watch
Maker / attribution
Favre-Leuba
Reference
Not recorded
Catalogue / lot identifier
as170a5616
Source-reported date
1974
Country
Switzerland

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Dial and Visual Appearance

The timepiece presents a circular dial with a silvered sunburst finish, displaying the maker's signature 'FAVRE-LEUBA GENÈVE' positioned beneath 12 o'clock. Time is indicated via applied slender dark baton hour markers paired with centrally mounted hour, minute, and sweep seconds hands.

The dial is housed within a smooth circular yellow gold case featuring tapered lugs, and the watch is presented mounted on a dark brown alligator-style textured leather strap.

Evidence for this section
  • “Silvered sunburst dial inscribed 'FAVRE-LEUBA GENÈVE' below 12 o'clock”
  • “Applied slender dark baton hour markers with central hour, minute, and sweep seconds hands”
  • “Yellow gold circular case with tapered lugs and smooth bezel”
  • “Mounted on a dark brown alligator-style textured leather strap”

Case Construction and Provenance Inscription

According to the seller's documentation, the circular case measures 35 mm in diameter, excluding the winding crown and lugs, and is manufactured from 9 carat gold. Assayed hallmarks inside the case back are reported for Birmingham, dated 1974.

The reverse of the case is reported to feature an engraved presentation inscription: 'There is a long service inscription from Trico, specialists in windscreen wiper products, dated 1974.' Regarding condition, the vendor states that the 'front of the case is in good condition' whereas the 'case back has some unevenness.'

Evidence for this section
  • “The watch is a good size at 35mm diameter excluding the winding crown and the lugs.”
  • “The case is 9 carat gold and there are hallmarks inside the case back for Birmingham 1974.”
  • “There is a long service inscription from Trico, specialists in windscreen wiper products, dated 1974.”
  • “The front of the case is in good condition. The case back has some unevenness.”

Movement and Retaining Mechanism

The internal mechanism is described by the seller as a signed hand-winding movement reported to be 'working nicely.' Specific caliber designation, dimensions, and jewel count are not recorded in the source text.

Regarding movement retention, the seller notes visible empty apertures: 'On the photograph of the movement you will notice two empty screw holes for retaining screws... these are supposed to be empty as the movement is held in place by the shaped case therefore the screws are not required.' As the internal movement is not visible in the provided dial photograph, this structure relies entirely on the dealer's report.

Evidence for this section
  • “The watch has a signed hand-winding movement which is working nicely.”
  • “On the photograph of the movement you will notice two empty screw holes for retaining screws... these are supposed to be empty as the movement is held in place by the shaped case therefore the screws are not required.”

Open research questions

  • What specific caliber number and jewel count are stamped on the signed Favre-Leuba hand-winding movement?
  • What is the exact text and recipient recorded in the 1974 Trico long service inscription on the case back?
  • Which maker's or sponsor's mark accompanies the 1974 Birmingham 9ct gold hallmark inside the case back?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Gents 9ct Gold Favre Leuba Dress Watch
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
Case Material9 carat gold“The case is 9 carat gold”
Hallmark Date and LocationBirmingham, 1974“there are hallmarks inside the case back for Birmingham 1974.”
Case Diameter35mm“The watch is a good size at 35mm diameter excluding the winding crown and the lugs.”
Movement TypeHand-winding“The watch has a signed hand-winding movement which is working nicely.”
InscriptionTrico long service dated 1974“There is a long service inscription from Trico, specialists in windscreen wiper products, dated 1974.”
Strap ReplacementFitted with a new leather strap“A new leather strap has been fitted.”
Lens ConditionReported in good condition“The lens is in good condition.”
Dial ConditionReported in good original condition“The signed dial is in good original condition.”

Visible details

  • Silvered sunburst dial inscribed 'FAVRE-LEUBA GENÈVE' below 12 o'clock
  • Applied slender dark baton hour markers with central hour, minute, and sweep seconds hands
  • Yellow gold circular case with tapered lugs and smooth bezel
  • Mounted on a dark brown alligator-style textured leather strap

Research qualifications

  • Internal hallmarks, movement caliber, and movement retaining structure cannot be seen in the dial-side photograph and rely on dealer description.
  • Engraved case back inscription and reported back unevenness are not visible from the primary photograph.

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

Antiques Atlas - Gents 9ct Gold Favre Leuba Dress Watch as170a5616

Reviewed 2026-10-21 · Record bb272baed5

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.