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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Watch family · Transitional

Officer's Watches

Partially verified

A period term for a small, strap-worn wire-lug watch privately purchased or issued to a commissioned officer, typically a converted or purpose-cased pocket-watch-style movement fitted with a protective grille, worn on campaign in preference to a chained pocket watch.

Movement & mechanism

  • Small pocket-watch-derived lever movement, generally 13–17 lignes in size
  • Wire lugs soldered to a case originally designed for pocket carriage
  • Hinged or screwed protective wire grille ('shrapnel guard') over the crystal in many surviving examples
  • Luminous radium hands and numerals typical of the period

Identification

  • Small case diameter by later standards, typically under 33mm
  • Wire lugs that appear soldered onto a case of otherwise pocket-watch form
  • Cyrillic, French or English regimental or private engraving on some period examples, though such engraving is easily added later and should be assessed with care
  • Wire crystal guard, often hinged to one side

Terminology

  • Officer's watch — the period retail and advertising term for a private-purchase strap watch of this type, as distinct from formally issued military watches
  • Shrapnel guard — the protective wire grille over the crystal

Known variations

  • Enamel-dial private-purchase officer's watch
  • Silver or gold-cased officer's watch
  • Officer's watch with regimental engraving (verify authenticity of any engraving)

Pocket-watch ancestry

The officer's watch is not mechanically distinct from a small pocket watch of the same date; it is precisely a pocket-watch movement and case fitted with wire lugs and a strap, illustrating how the earliest wristwatches for men were understood, sold and worn as adapted pocket watches rather than as a newly designed category.

Collecting notes

Collected as an early and often better-finished subset of trench watch generally; because 'officer's watch' was a marketing term rather than a fixed specification, attribution rests on case, dial and movement quality rather than any single defining feature, and unmarked examples cannot reliably be distinguished from ordinary civilian trench watches of the same date.

Background

British military officers began wearing pocket watches on the wrist in leather straps known as wristlets during the late nineteenth century to coordinate maneuvers in terrain where visual signals were impractical. These early wristlets allowed officers to check the time while maintaining control of horses and weapons, establishing the practice of wearing timepieces on the wrist as an essential part of an officer's kit. During the First World War, the demand for wrist-worn timepieces led to the adoption of purpose-made watches featuring wire lugs, which were better suited for wear under a shirt cuff than bulky wristlet-housed pocket watches. These watches were typically privately purchased by officers using provided allowances, though they were functionally integral to their field equipment.

Written from the sources listed under Sources (makers, museums, auction houses and specialist publications are paraphrased, not reproduced); each statement was checked against the cited text, and claims a maker makes about its own work are attributed to it.

Where sources differ

  • Definition. This record gives: “A period term for a small, strap-worn wire-lug watch privately purchased or issued to a commissioned officer, typically a converted or purpose-cased pocket-watch-style movement”. Vintage Watch Straps holds that purpose-made officers' wristwatches were designed as wristwatches from the start rather than converted from pocket watches.

Photographs

Officers comparing watches
Officers comparing watches — Sot.virk. T.Norjavirta, Public domain. Wikimedia Commons file page
WWII 1939 Tiffany & Co. Officers Watch Omega Movement - Dixon's Auction ...
WWII 1939 Tiffany & Co. Officers Watch Omega Movement - Dixon's Auction ... — dixon.crumptonauctions.com, Rights unverified — web image search result, review pending. Web page (dixon.crumptonauctions.com)

Photographs are illustrative examples of the type, not necessarily the exact object described. Verify details against the source file page.

Sources & references

  1. First military wristwatches, Vintage Watch Straps, retrieved 2026-10-30 (paraphrased; text © the publisher)
  2. Wristlets and converters, Vintage Watch Straps, retrieved 2026-10-30 (paraphrased; text © the publisher)
  3. Cutmore, M., Watches 1850–1980
  4. General First World War military equipment histories; individual retailer advertising claims of the period are not independently verified here.

Where sources disagree, the disagreement is stated rather than resolved silently.