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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Pocket watch · Pocket watch

Watch by Jacques Goullons

Partially verified

This pocket watch was made by the watchmaker Jacques Goullons, who was active in Paris between approximately 1640 and 1660. Attributed to the period circa 1645–1650, the object consists of a case and dial decorated in painted enamel on gold, featuring a brass hand for time indication. The movement is constructed of gilded brass and partly blued steel, with its plates showing intricate decorative engraving. The timepiece measures 2 3/8 inches (6 cm) in diameter for the case, with a back plate diameter of 1 15/16 inches (4.9 cm). It is part of the collection of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, having been gifted to the institution by J. Pierpont Morgan in 1917.

Exterior view of the enameled gold watch case showing figurative imagery.
Exterior view of the enameled gold watch case showing figurative imagery. — The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
orbiscollectibles.com
Category
Pocket watch · Pocket watch
Maker / attribution
Jacques Goullons
Reference
Not recorded
Catalogue / lot identifier
17.190.1557
Source-reported date
ca. 1645–50
Source-reported place
France

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and Dial Design

The exterior of the watch is finished in painted enamel on gold, a technique involving the application of opaque or translucent colored glass fused to the metal surface. The surface displays detailed figurative compositions rendered in this enamel medium. The overall diameter of the casing is recorded at 2 3/8 inches.

The watch includes a single brass hand for the indication of time. The overall construction maintains the form of 17th-century pocket timepieces, utilizing a hinged assembly. The case surface remains the primary decorative element, reflecting the artistic priorities associated with the mid-17th century French production context.

Evidence for this section
  • “Case and dial: painted enamel on gold with brass hand”
  • “Diameter (case): 2 3/8 in. (6 cm)”

Movement Construction

The internal mechanism is crafted from gilded brass, which serves as the base material for the main plates. Parts of the movement, including elements of the escapement and motion work, are executed in blued steel. The movement is of the verge type, consistent with the period of production.

The plates display engraved decorative patterns, including scrollwork and floral motifs. The signature of the maker is engraved on the main plate, confirming the origin to be the work of Jacques Goullons in Paris. The mechanical layout adheres to the scale and design configurations expected for a watch of this diameter.

Evidence for this section
  • “Movement: gilded brass and partly blued steel”
  • “Diameter (back plate): 1 15/16 in. (4.9 cm)”

Identification and Provenance

The object is held in the collection of The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York under the accession number 17.190.1557. It was acquired by the museum as part of the gift from J. Pierpont Morgan in 1917. The documentation identifies the maker as Jacques Goullons, active in Paris between approximately 1640 and 1660.

The dating provided for the watch is approximately 1645 to 1650. While the maker's records indicate an active career in Paris, the museum notes that the geographical attribution is based on established historical records of the watchmaker's life rather than an explicit marking of the location on the watch beyond the signature.

Evidence for this section
  • “Watch made by Jacques Goullons (French, recorded 1626, active Paris ca. 1640–60, died 1671)”
  • “The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of J. Pierpont Morgan, 1917”

Open research questions

  • What is the specific composition of the movement train and escapement components?
  • Are there contemporary records or comparative pieces from Jacques Goullons that confirm the production date range of 1645–50?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Watch by Jacques Goullons
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
MakerJacques Goullons“Watchmaker: Jacques Goullons (French, recorded 1626, active Paris ca. 1640–60, died 1671)”
Dateca. 1645–50“dated ca. 1645–50”
Case MaterialPainted enamel on gold“Case and dial: painted enamel on gold with brass hand”
Movement MaterialGilded brass and partly blued steel“Movement: gilded brass and partly blued steel”
Case Diameter2 3/8 in. (6 cm)“Diameter (case): 2 3/8 in. (6 cm)”
Back Plate Diameter1 15/16 in. (4.9 cm)“Diameter (back plate): 1 15/16 in. (4.9 cm)”
Accession Number17.190.1557“The Metropolitan Museum of Art holds this object as 17.190.1557”
OriginFrench, probably Paris“French, probably Paris”

Visible details

  • The movement back plate is signed 'Goullons A Paris' in cursive script.
  • The movement features floral, scroll-like engravings on the gilded plates.
  • The exterior case is decorated with figurative painted enamel scenes.
  • A small metal loop for attachment is fixed to the top of the case.

Research qualifications

  • The specific date range remains an approximation provided by the museum.
  • The attribution of the location to Paris is based on the maker's known history rather than documentary proof for this specific unit.

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

Watch by Jacques Goullons, French, probably Paris, ca. 1645–50

Reviewed 2026-11-02 · Record 29973ca84f

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.

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