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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Wristwatch · Dress watch

Universal Genève 14k Rose Gold Saudi Armed Forces Wristwatch

Partially verified

This Universal Genève timepiece is a manual-wind wristwatch crafted in the 1960s. The 35mm case is composed of 14-karat rose gold, featuring a screw-down case back and stylized lugs. The dial has a textured finish in a rose gold tone, marked with the emblem of the Saudi Arabian Armed Forces in the upper half and an inscription in Arabic, identified as the signature of King Saud, in the lower half. The hour markers are applied, paired with rose gold hands lacking luminous material. Internally, the watch is powered by the Universal Genève Calibre 332 movement, which contains 17 jewels. The watch is presented on a leather strap and is documented in the source as a historical example of a royal commission intended for members of the Saudi military forces. The mechanism has undergone technical inspection.

Front view of the 14k rose gold Universal Genève wristwatch, showing the Saudi Armed Forces emblem and King Saud's signature on the dial.
Front view of the 14k rose gold Universal Genève wristwatch, showing the Saudi Armed Forces emblem and King Saud's signature on the dial. — Zamanito. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
zamanito.com
Category
Wristwatch · Dress watch
Maker / attribution
Universal Genève
Reference
Not recorded
Catalogue / lot identifier
Source URL identifies the listing
Source-reported date
1960s
Source-reported place
Switzerland
Source-reported serial
1747xxx

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and Dial

The watch is housed in a 35mm rose gold case marked with the 0.585 purity stamp indicating 14-karat gold composition. The exterior design incorporates a stepped bezel and what are described as 'fancy' lugs, contributing to its dress watch appearance. The case back is of the screw-down variety, ensuring protection for the movement.

The dial surface features a distinct textured finish with a rose-colored hue. It is personalized with the official insignia of the Saudi Armed Forces located in the upper field. Below the center, the dial bears an Arabic inscription, specifically identified as the signature of King Saud, which relates to the watch's origins as a commissioned piece for royal presentation. The indices are applied markers, complemented by matching rose-gold hands without luminous applications.

Evidence for this section
  • “قاب ساعت با قطر ۳۵ میلی‌متر از طلای رزگلد ۱۴ عیار (با حک عیار 0.585 در درب پشت) ساخته شده”
  • “دارای درب پشتی پیچی، بزل پله‌ای و پایه‌های بند موسوم به «فنسی» (Fancy lugs)”
  • “صفحه ساعت دارای بافت برجسته و تم صورتی (رزگلد) است”
  • “نشان رسمی نیروهای مسلح عربستان سعودی در نیمه بالایی آن و امضای نام ملک سعود («سعود») در نیمه پایینی نقش بسته است.”

Movement

Power is provided by the Universal Genève Calibre 332, a manual-winding mechanical movement designed specifically for the brand. The movement architecture incorporates 17 jewels to reduce friction in the gear train. The source notes that the watchmaker associated with the collection has performed a full technical inspection of the mechanism to ensure its current operational status.

It is set within the gold case, which secures via a screw-down backing that bears the Swiss hallmarks visible in the documentation.

Evidence for this section
  • “درون این ساعت، کالیبر کوکی دستی 332 اختصاصی Universal Genève جای گرفته است که با ۱۷ سنگ قیمتی و کوک دستی عمل می‌کند”
  • “مکانیزم آن توسط ساعت‌ساز مجموعه بررسی فنی کامل گردیده”

Historical Context

The provenance of the watch is linked to the 1960s, a period established by the serial number range 1747xxx. According to historical records referenced in the source, timepieces featuring these specific Saudi military and royal markings were commissioned for distribution as official gifts from King Saud to distinguished members of the Saudi Armed Forces.

While the auction source provides this historical account, it acknowledges the information originates from the seller's documentation and represents the reported history of the object rather than an independent archival verification.

Evidence for this section
  • “تولید این اثر به دهه ۱۹۶۰ میلادی بازمی‌گردد”
  • “ساعت‌های دارای این نمادها به عنوان هدایای رسمی سلطنتی از سوی پادشاه به اعضای برجسته نیروهای مسلح اعطا می‌شده‌اند”

Open research questions

  • Can the specific serial number be cross-referenced with Universal Genève factory records to confirm the date and original order?
  • Are there archival records from the Saudi Royal Court confirming the production numbers of Universal Genève watches featuring the King Saud signature?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Universal Genève 14k Rose Gold Saudi Armed Forces Wristwatch
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
MakerUniversal Genève“از برند سوئیسی Universal Genève”
Case Material14k rose gold“طلای رزگلد ۱۴ عیار”
MovementCalibre 332, 17 jewels“کالیبر کوکی دستی 332 اختصاصی Universal Genève جای گرفته است که با ۱۷ سنگ قیمتی”
Serial Number1747xxx“شماره سریال مندرج روی قاب (1747xxx)”
Case Diameter35 mm“قطر ۳۵ میلی‌متر”
Dial DetailsSaudi Armed Forces emblem and King Saud signature“نشان رسمی نیروهای مسلح عربستان سعودی در نیمه بالایی آن و امضای نام ملک سعود («سعود») در نیمه پایینی نقش بسته است.”
Case BackScrew-down“درب پشتی پیچی”

Visible details

  • Applied rose gold indices on a textured dial
  • Rose gold hands without luminous inserts
  • Screw-down case back with 0.585 hallmark
  • Manual-wind movement Calibre 332 visible in photo

Research qualifications

  • Specific reference number not provided in source
  • Direct attribution of the watch as a 'gift' relies on historical documentation referenced by the seller

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.