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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Wristwatch · Triple calendar moon phase wristwatch

Tinker Triple Calendar Moon Phase Wristwatch, Cal. Valjoux 89

Partially verified

This vintage mechanical wristwatch attributed to Tinker is dated by the seller to the 1940s and features triple calendar and moon phase functions. The source states it is powered by a 17-jewel manual-wind Valjoux caliber 89 movement. The dial displays applied gold-tone Arabic numerals, day of the week at 9 o'clock, month at 3 o'clock, a moon phase display at 6 o'clock, and an outer date ring marked in blue Arabic numerals indicated by a central pointer hand. The round case measures 28.5 mm across and is fitted with calendar pushers and a black lizard leather strap.

Dial and front view of the Tinker triple calendar moon phase wristwatch on a black lizard-grain strap
Dial and front view of the Tinker triple calendar moon phase wristwatch on a black lizard-grain strap — Second Hand Horology. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
secondhandhorology.com
Category
Wristwatch · Triple calendar moon phase wristwatch
Maker / attribution
Tinker
Reference
Not recorded
Catalogue / lot identifier
WA-0557
Source-reported date
1940s
Country
Switzerland

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Dial Design and Display Indications

The watch features a champagne-toned dial carrying the Tinker name and a sailing boat logo beneath the 12 o'clock position. Hour positions are indicated by applied gold-tone Arabic numerals, accompanied by gold-tone hour and minute hands and a red central sweep seconds hand.

Calendar and astronomical complications are arranged across the dial surface. Day and month windows appear at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock respectively (displaying 'SUN' and 'AUG' in the primary image), while a moon phase display sits at 6 o'clock beneath the printed designation '17 JEWELS'. The date is tracked via an outer chapter ring marked in blue Arabic numerals from 1 to 31, indicated by a central pointer hand tipped with a blue arrow.

Evidence for this section
  • “Champagne-toned dial with Tinker name and sailing boat logo below 12 o'clock”
  • “Day aperture at 9 o'clock displaying 'SUN' and month aperture at 3 o'clock displaying 'AUG'”
  • “Moon phase aperture at 6 o'clock labeled '17 JEWELS' above, showing a face graphic and stars”
  • “Outer date chapter ring numbered 1 to 31 in blue, traced by a date pointer hand with a blue arrow tip”

Case Structure and Dimensions

The timepiece is housed in a round gold-tone case measuring 28.5 mm in diameter, 31.5 mm across including the crown, 12.8 mm in thickness, and 34.8 mm lug-to-lug, with a 16 mm lug width. The seller describes the case as having a 'fancy lug design' with a 'stainless-steel back', and it is fitted with a two-piece black lizard leather strap.

Case pushers visible near the 2, 4, and 8 o'clock positions operate the calendar displays. According to the seller's notes, the month is adjusted by the pusher at 2 o'clock and the day by the pusher at 8 o'clock, with no quickset mechanism recorded for the date hand.

Evidence for this section
  • “Case Diameter 28.5”
  • “Case with Crown 31.5”
  • “Case Thickness 12.8”
  • “Case Lug to Lug 34.8”
  • “Lug Width 16”
  • “fancy lug design, stainless-steel back”
  • “month: set by pusher at 2h, day: set by pusher at 8h, date hand: no quickset”

Reported Movement and Technical Specifications

Movement specifications are drawn from vendor documentation, as the internal caliber is not exposed in the visual record. The seller identifies the mechanism as a Swiss-made, 17-jewel manual-wind Valjoux caliber 89, also cited in summary specifications as 'Swiss Made R 89'.

While the case back is not depicted in the image, the seller records stamped case markings reading 'BREVET SWISS Waterproof Antimagnetic Swiss Made Stainless Steel Back 381'. The general dating of the timepiece to the 1940s represents the seller's estimate.

Evidence for this section
  • “powered by a Valjoux movement caliber Valjoux 89, 17 jewels, sweep second”
  • “Movement: Swiss Made R 89”
  • “BREVET SWISS Waterproof Antimagnetic Swiss Made Stainless Steel Back 381”
  • “vintage Tinker triple calendar moon phase mechanical; wristwatch dated from the 1940s”

Open research questions

  • What specific Swiss patent corresponds to the case back marking 'BREVET SWISS' on reference 381?
  • Does direct physical inspection of the movement reveal Valjoux caliber 89 stamping or Swiss import codes?
  • Is the round watch case base metal with gold plating, gold-filled, or a solid gold alloy?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Tinker Triple Calendar Moon Phase Wristwatch, Cal. Valjoux 89
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
Movement CaliberValjoux 89“powered by a Valjoux movement caliber Valjoux 89”
Jewel Count17 jewels“17 jewels”
Case Diameter28.5 mm“Case Diameter 28.5”
Case Thickness12.8 mm“Case Thickness 12.8”
Case Back InscriptionBREVET SWISS Waterproof Antimagnetic Swiss Made Stainless Steel Back 381“BREVET SWISS Waterproof Antimagnetic Swiss Made Stainless Steel Back 381”
SKUWA-0557“SKU: WA-0557”
Case Width with Crown31.5 mm“Case with Crown 31.5”
Lug to Lug Length34.8 mm“Case Lug to Lug 34.8”
Strap DescriptionBlack Genuine Lizard two-piece strap“black Genuine Lizard two-piece strap”

Visible details

  • Champagne-toned dial with Tinker name and sailing boat logo below 12 o'clock
  • Day aperture at 9 o'clock displaying 'SUN' and month aperture at 3 o'clock displaying 'AUG'
  • Moon phase aperture at 6 o'clock labeled '17 JEWELS' above, showing a face graphic and stars
  • Outer date chapter ring numbered 1 to 31 in blue, traced by a date pointer hand with a blue arrow tip
  • Red central sweep seconds hand and gold-tone hour and minute hands
  • Gold-tone round case with case pushers visible near 2, 4, and 8 o'clock positions, mounted on a textured black leather strap

Research qualifications

  • Movement is not visible in the provided image; caliber identification relies on source documentation
  • Case back is not shown in the image

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

1940s TINKER Triple Calendar Moon Phase Wristwatch Cal. VALJOUX 89 Wat – SECOND HAND HOROLOGY

Reviewed 2026-10-21 · Record a637d464fb

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.

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