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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Wristwatch · Automatic wristwatch

Patek Philippe Nautilus Reference 3800/1 Wristwatch

Partially verified

This Patek Philippe Nautilus wristwatch, reference 3800/1, dates to approximately 2005 and originates from the fourth and final series of the midsize model. The case measures 37.5 mm in diameter and is constructed from 18 K white gold, featuring a screwed-on bezel and an integrated white gold bracelet with a double deployant clasp. The anthracite dial is distinguished by a bar-like texture and diamond hour indexes, with a date window at the 3 o'clock position. The watch is powered by the automatic calibre 330/194, bearing movement number 3020520. According to the auction description, this reference 3800 in white gold is an elusive model with approximately 15 known examples. The object is accompanied by an original watch winder and original box. The auction description reports the watch is in very good, worn condition, noting that the movement requires cleaning despite being functional.

Patek Philippe Nautilus reference 3800/1 in 18 K white gold with anthracite diamond-set dial, presented in an original watch winder box.
Patek Philippe Nautilus reference 3800/1 in 18 K white gold with anthracite diamond-set dial, presented in an original watch winder box. — Invaluable. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
www.invaluable.com
Category
Wristwatch · Automatic wristwatch
Maker / attribution
Patek Philippe
Reference
3800/1
Catalogue / lot identifier
38
Source-reported date
circa 2005
Source-reported place
Switzerland
Source-reported serial
2990840

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and Dial

The Patek Philippe Nautilus reference 3800/1 features a 37.5 mm diameter case executed in 18 K white gold. The exterior architecture incorporates a characteristic screwed-on bezel design. The watch is fitted with a matching 18 K white gold bracelet secured by a double deployant clasp. The aesthetic of the case and bracelet reflects the midsize porthole-inspired design language introduced by the maker in 1981.

The dial is finished in an anthracite tone and decorated with a horizontal bar-like texture. It includes central seconds and a date complication positioned at the 3 o'clock mark. Distinctive to this specific example are the diamond hour indexes set against the anthracite background. The auction description states that the dial is in very good condition.

Evidence for this section
  • “Case: 18 K white gold, screwed on bezel, PPC 18 K white gold bracelet with double deployant clasp”
  • “Dial: Anthracite, bar-like texture, diamond indexes.”

Movement and Series

This timepiece belongs to the fourth and final series of the reference 3800, which was produced until 2006. The internal mechanism is the proprietary automatic calibre 330/194. This calibre is notable for its frequency of 21,600 oscillations per minute. The movement is identified by the number 3020520.

The auction house states that while the reference 3800 was predominantly produced in stainless steel or yellow gold, the white gold variant is extremely rare, with only approximately 15 known examples. The movement is described as being in very good, functional condition, though the report advises that cleaning is necessary.

Evidence for this section
  • “The fourth and last series was produced until 2006 with calibre 330 194 (330 SC), featuring 21,600 oscillations/minute”
  • “the Nautilus reference 3800 in white gold is an extremely rare and elusive model of which only about 15 examples are known.”
  • “Movm.: very good, capable of running, cleaning needed.”

Provenance and Documentation

The lot includes an original watch winder and the original box. The object is catalogued as item number 38 in the source. No further provenance or history is provided. The documentation confirms the manufacture of this unit as part of the production run ending in 2006.

The auction description includes a condition report noting that the case is in very good, worn condition. All components are attributed to the original configuration as manufactured in Switzerland circa 2005.

Evidence for this section
  • “from the fourth and last series of the classic Nautilus Midsize reference 3800 - with original watch winder”
  • “Origin Schweiz”
  • “Case: very good, worn.”

Open research questions

  • What is the specific production date range for movement number 3020520 within the fourth series?
  • Are there distinct archival records confirming the production count of 15 white gold 3800 units?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Patek Philippe Nautilus Reference 3800/1 Wristwatch
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
MakerPatek Philippe“Patek Philippe”
Reference3800/1“Ref. 3800/1”
Movement Number3020520“Movm. No. 3020520”
Case Number2990840“Case No. 2990840”
Calibre330/194“Cal. 330/194”
Case Material18 K white gold“Case: 18 K white gold”
Production Datecirca 2005“circa 2005”
OriginSchweiz“Origin Schweiz”
ConditionVery good, worn“Case: very good, worn. Dial: very good. Movm.: very good, capable of running, cleaning needed.”

Visible details

  • Anthracite dial with bar-like texture
  • Diamond set hour markers
  • Screwed-on bezel construction
  • Integrated link bracelet with double deployant clasp

Research qualifications

  • Total production count estimated by source as approximately 15 examples
  • Movement reported as capable of running but requiring cleaning

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

Patek Philippe - 18 K White Gold

Reviewed 2026-10-26 · Record 7a263a811d

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.

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