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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Wristwatch · Military & trench watch

Longines British military-issued ‘Dirty Dozen’ mechanical wristwatch

Partially verified

This is a 1940s Longines British military-issued 'Dirty Dozen' mechanical wristwatch, catalogued as featuring a hand-wound 15-jewel calibre 12.68Z movement. The stainless steel case measures approximately 35 mm in diameter and is paired with a later expandable metal wrist strap. The signed black dial displays the British military broad arrow, white Arabic numerals, an outer minute track with luminous five-minute dots, and a subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o'clock. The backplate is catalogued as engraved with '23088 3004', the broad arrow, 'WWW', and 'F6728'. Provenance is listed from The John Mitchell Collection of Military Horology.

Oblique front view of the Longines wristwatch showing dial, crystal wear, and expandable bracelet
Oblique front view of the Longines wristwatch showing dial, crystal wear, and expandable bracelet — Sworders. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
timed.sworder.co.uk
Category
Wristwatch · Military & trench watch
Form
Military wristwatch
Maker / attribution
Longines
Reference
Not recorded
Catalogue / lot identifier
6
Source-reported date
1940s
Source-reported place
Switzerland

Maker profile: Longines — history, key models and current watchmaking.

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Dial and Visual Characteristics

The watch features a black dial catalogued as signed and bearing the military broad arrow, with white Arabic numerals, an outer minute track punctuated by luminous five-minute dots, and a subsidiary seconds register at 6 o'clock.

Visual inspection notes that the dial appears worn and the curved glass displays surface scratches. The watch is fitted with an elasticated metal bracelet showing surface wear and discolouration.

Evidence for this section
  • “the black dial, signed and with military arrow, with white Arabic numerals, white outer minute track with luminous dot five-minute markers, and a subsidiary seconds dial”
  • “Knocks and wear the dial worn, later strap, scratches to the glass.”

Case Construction and Military Markings

The timepiece is catalogued as having a stainless steel case measuring approximately 35 mm in diameter, described as British military-issued and fitted with a later stainless steel elasticated wrist strap.

The backplate is catalogued as engraved with '23088 3004 the military arrow 'WWW' above 'F6728''. Because no photograph of the backplate is provided, these markings are source-reported.

Evidence for this section
  • “stainless steel British military-issued ‘Dirty Dozen’ mechanical wristwatch”
  • “35mm diameter approx”
  • “the backplate engraved '23088 3004 the military arrow 'WWW' above 'F6728'”
  • “with a stainless steel elasticated wrist strap”

Reported Movement and Stated Operation

The auction catalogue describes the watch as housing a hand-wound 15-jewel mechanical movement of 12.68Z calibre. As the movement is not pictured, these internal specifications are unverified by direct visual inspection.

The auctioneer's condition report notes the operational status as 'Working when wound'. Long-term accuracy, power reserve, and service records are not recorded in this source.

Evidence for this section
  • “with a hand-wound movement, 15 jewel, 12.68Z calibre”
  • “Working when wound.”

Open research questions

  • Does direct examination of the movement confirm the serial number and calibre 12.68Z designation reported by the cataloguer?
  • Does inspection of the case back confirm the reported engraving ('23088 3004', broad arrow, 'WWW', 'F6728') and show matching lug numbers?
  • What style of lugs (e.g. fixed military bars) are fitted underneath the replacement elasticated metal bracelet?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Longines British military-issued ‘Dirty Dozen’ mechanical wristwatch
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
Calibre12.68Z“12.68Z calibre”
Jewel count15 jewel“15 jewel”
Case materialStainless steel“stainless steel British military-issued”
Case diameter35mm approx“35mm diameter approx”
Case back engraving23088 3004 the military arrow 'WWW' above 'F6728'“the backplate engraved '23088 3004 the military arrow 'WWW' above 'F6728'”
ProvenanceThe John Mitchell Collection of Military Horology“Provenance: The John Mitchell Collection of Military Horology”
StrapLater stainless steel elasticated wrist strap“with a stainless steel elasticated wrist strap”
Operational stateWorking when wound (source-reported)“Working when wound.”

Visible details

  • Matte black dial with white Arabic hour numerals and a sub-seconds track at 6 o'clock
  • Military broad arrow marking and Longines logo printed below the 12 o'clock position
  • Fitted with an expandable textured metal stretch bracelet exhibiting surface discolouration and wear
  • Curved crystal displaying noticeable surface scratches and signs of wear

Research qualifications

  • Case back engravings ('23088 3004', broad arrow, 'WWW', 'F6728') are source-reported; no rear photograph is provided.
  • Internal calibre 12.68Z movement and 15-jewel specification are source-reported; movement is not pictured.

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.