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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Wristwatch · Wristwatch

Cartier Tank Louis Ref. 78086

Partially verified

This Cartier Tank Louis wristwatch, reference 78086, dates to the early 1970s and is constructed with a white gold case measuring 23mm by 31mm. The watch features a white enamel dial signed 'Paris', displaying Roman numerals and black printed text, paired with blued-steel sword-shaped hands. A blue sapphire cabochon is set into the winding crown at the 3 o'clock position. The watch is presented on a strap and includes a period-correct Cartier-signed white gold deployant clasp. The auction description reports that the watch has been lightly polished and retains defined hallmarks. The dial shows signs of faint, even crazing visible under magnification, while the case exhibits normal wear consistent with age. This example is identified as being crafted from white gold rather than the more frequently encountered yellow gold.

Front view of the Cartier Tank Louis showing the rectangular white gold case and white dial with Roman numerals.
Front view of the Cartier Tank Louis showing the rectangular white gold case and white dial with Roman numerals. — Oliver & Clarke. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
www.oliverandclarke.com
Category
Wristwatch · Wristwatch
Maker / attribution
Cartier
Reference
78086
Catalogue / lot identifier
Source URL identifies the listing
Source-reported date
early 1970s
Source-reported place
Not established

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and Dial Details

The watch features a rectangular case measuring 23mm by 31mm, manufactured from white gold. The brancards, which integrate with the lugs, characterize the Tank design. The auction description notes the case has been subject to light polishing, though it retains its proportions and clear hallmarks. Normal signs of wear and sleeve-polish are reported, with an absence of major damage.

The white enamel dial is signed with 'Paris' and features a black printed Roman numeral track. Under magnification, the dial surface exhibits a faint and even pattern of crazing. The display is completed by a set of blued-steel sword hands, and the winding crown at the 3 o'clock position is set with a blue sapphire cabochon.

Evidence for this section
  • “classically-sized 23mm x 31mm rectangular case”
  • “having been very lightly previously polished, with clear and defined hallmarks and correct factory proportions”
  • “When viewed under magnification, a faint and even 'crazing' is present throughout”
  • “blue sapphire cabochon winding crown at the 3 o'clock position”

Movement and Accessories

The watch is accompanied by a period-correct white gold deployant clasp, which is signed by Cartier. This specific component is noted as a rare inclusion with this reference. The internal movement and its specific caliber specifications are not detailed in the provided documentation, focusing instead on the external appearance and the presence of the signed deployant mechanism.

The watch is presented as an uncommon variation within the Tank Louis model range, specifically citing the scarcity of white gold cases in comparison to the more common yellow gold alternatives produced during this era.

Evidence for this section
  • “accompanied by its period-correct Cartier signed white gold deployant clasp — a rare find!”
  • “we probably see one white gold Tank for every twenty or so in yellow”

Condition and Authenticity

The auction description states that the timepiece is in a strong, well-preserved state. The case retains its factory proportions despite previous light polishing, and the white enamel dial remains crisp with distinct black printed text. There are no major signs of damage, although the watch exhibits expected surface wear from age.

Authenticity is addressed by the presence of clearly defined hallmarks on the case and the period-signed clasp. The description categorizes this piece as an early 1970s production, aligning it with the established lineage of the Tank Louis model introduced in the 1920s.

Evidence for this section
  • “It comes to us in strong, nicely preserved overall condition”
  • “devoid of any major damage”
  • “Dating to the early 1970s”

Open research questions

  • What specific movement caliber is housed within this reference 78086 case?
  • Are there archival records that can verify the production quantity of white gold cases for this specific reference during the early 1970s?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Cartier Tank Louis Ref. 78086
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
Reference78086“رفرنس 78086”
Case dimensions23mm x 31mm“classically-sized 23mm x 31mm rectangular case”
Case materialWhite gold“rather than being crafted out of yellow gold, this example is of white gold”
DialWhite enamel 'Paris' signed“white enamel 'Paris' signed dial inside”
CrownBlue sapphire cabochon“blue sapphire cabochon winding crown at the 3 o'clock position”
ClaspCartier signed white gold deployant“accompanied by its period-correct Cartier signed white gold deployant clasp”

Visible details

  • Blue sapphire cabochon crown at 3 o'clock
  • Rectangular white gold case
  • Blued-steel sword hands
  • White enamel dial with 'Paris' signature

Research qualifications

  • Exact production date remains an approximation
  • Unverified total production numbers for this reference in white gold

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

ساعت مچی Cartier Tank Louis رفرنس 78086

Reviewed 2026-11-02 · Record 35c9f98f90

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Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.

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