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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Pocket watch · Pendant watch

Cartier, Paris platinum and diamond-set pendant watch with pearl and diamond-set chatelaine

Partially verified

This cushion-form pendant watch is reported by Sotheby's as produced by Cartier, Paris, circa 1910. The platinum case measures 28 by 28 mm and features a slim bezel held by eight underside screws, accompanied by a chatelaine of woven pearl strands terminating in a diamond-set platinum openwork terminal. The silvered sunburst engine-turned dial displays stretched radial Roman numerals, an inner chemin-de-fer minute track, and blued steel Breguet hands. Source documentation records a 10¼-ligne circular movement with Côtes de Genève decoration, 18 jewels, and an Edmond Jaeger punch mark on the interior.

Obverse view of the cushion-form pendant watch attached to its pearl and diamond-set chatelaine
Obverse view of the cushion-form pendant watch attached to its pearl and diamond-set chatelaine — Sotheby's. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
www.sothebys.com
Category
Pocket watch · Pendant watch
Maker / attribution
Cartier, Paris
Reference
Not recorded
Catalogue / lot identifier
55
Source-reported date
Circa 1910
Source-reported place
France
Source-reported serial
10'642

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case Construction and Hallmarking

The pendant watch features a cushion-form platinum case measuring 28 by 28 mm, with a reported total length of approximately 90 mm including its chatelaine. The structure incorporates a slim polished bezel secured by eight screws to the underside, noted in catalog notes as closely following an Edmond Jaeger patent (no. 421746) filed on October 22, 1910. Broad stylized buckle-form lugs with millegrain rose-cut diamonds attach to the chatelaine, while a diamond-set beaded winding crown sits at the base.

Internal case surfaces bear multiple hand-stamped numbers and French eagle's head assay marks, which the catalog notes was applied to platinum prior to the introduction of the dog's head mark in December 1912. The interior of the case top is stamped 10'642, 1; the mid-body interior is stamped 10'642, 3'639; and the inside case back is stamped 4'902 and 10'642 alongside an Edmond Jaeger punch mark. Though not visible in the obverse catalog photograph, source documentation lists a polished case back with diamond-set edges and a millegrain rose-cut diamond-set framed monogram 'MB'.

Evidence for this section
  • “cushion-shaped case with a slim bezel secured by eight screws from underneath”
  • “inside case back hand stamped 4'902 and 10'642, with French eagle’s head assay mark and Edmond Jaeger punch mark”
  • “interior of case top hand stamped 10'642, 1 and with French eagle’s head assay mark, interior of mid-body hand stamped 10'642, 3'639 and with French eagle's head assay mark”
  • “polished case back with millegrain rose-cut diamond-set framed monogram MB, edge of case back diamond-set”

Dial and Chatelaine Details

Direct observation and source records describe a silvered engine-turned sunburst patterned dial centered with a stylized flower-form motif and surrounded by an inner chemin-de-fer minute track. Radial Roman numerals extend outwards to the bezel, indicated by blued steel Breguet hands. The dial is signed 'Cartier Paris, Bte S.G.D.G.' (Breveté Sans Garantie Du Gouvernement).

Attached at the upper lug is a short chatelaine formed of a woven flexible pearl chain. It terminates in a platinum millegrain diamond-set panel with an openwork square frame enclosing radiating leaf-like forms around a central diamond, fitted with a pendant hook at the back.

Evidence for this section
  • “silvered engine-turned sunburst patterned dial signed Cartier Paris, Bte S.G.D.G. (Breveté Sans Garantie Du Gouvernement), stylised flower-form motif to centre, stretched black radial Roman numerals, inner chemin-de fer minute track, blued steel Breguet hands”
  • “short chatelaine composed of woven flexible pearl chain emanating from the case’s lug and terminating in platinum millegrain diamond-set panel with openwork diamond-set square frame and central stylised floral motif of radiating leaf-like forms around a larger central diamond, pendant hook to frame’s back”

Reported Movement and Documentation

The movement is not visible in the catalog image and is described from seller technical documentation. It is recorded as a 10¼-ligne circular movement signed Cartier, Paris, decorated with damascened Côtes de Genève, featuring a lever escapement, 18 jewels, a bi-metallic compensation balance with timing and poising screws, eight adjustments, and a flat hairspring.

The movement plate beneath the dial is reported as hand-stamped with the numbers 10'642, 1. Sotheby's records that the watch is offered without box or papers.

Evidence for this section
  • “10¼’’’ circular movement signed Cartier, Paris, damascened Côtes de Genève decoration, lever escapement, 18 jewels, bi-metallic compensation balance with timing and poising screws, eight adjustments, flat hairspring”
  • “Movement number: numbered to movement beneath dial 10'642, 1”
  • “Box: no Papers: no”

Open research questions

  • Does Cartier's Paris client registry identify the buyer or recipient behind the 'MB' monogram for case and movement serial 10'642?
  • Does the 10¼-ligne caliber bear standard Jaeger ebauche markings on the pillar plate beneath the dial or bridges?
  • What is the condition and stringing stability of the woven pearl chain element of the chatelaine?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Cartier, Paris platinum and diamond-set pendant watch with pearl and diamond-set chatelaine
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
Dial signatureCartier Paris, Bte S.G.D.G.“silvered engine-turned sunburst patterned dial signed Cartier Paris, Bte S.G.D.G. (Breveté Sans Garantie Du Gouvernement)”
Movement caliber10¼’’’ circular movement“10¼’’’ circular movement signed Cartier, Paris, damascened Côtes de Genève decoration, lever escapement, 18 jewels”
Case dimensions28 x 28 mm“Size: 28 x 28 mm, the length of the watch with the chatelaine is approximately 90 mm”
Chatelaine constructionWoven flexible pearl chain terminating in diamond-set panel“short chatelaine composed of woven flexible pearl chain emanating from the case’s lug and terminating in platinum millegrain diamond-set panel”
Assay markFrench eagle’s head“interior of case top hand stamped 10'642, 1 and with French eagle’s head assay mark”
Patent referenceEdmond Jaeger patent no. 421746 filed October 22, 1910“closely follows a patent (no. 421746) filed by Edmond Jaeger on October 22, 1910, which describes a cushion-shaped case with a slim bezel secured by eight screws from underneath”
Case back monogramMillegrain rose-cut diamond-set monogram MB“polished case back with millegrain rose-cut diamond-set framed monogram MB, edge of case back diamond-set”
Total lengthApproximately 90 mm including chatelaine“Size: 28 x 28 mm, the length of the watch with the chatelaine is approximately 90 mm”

Visible details

  • Cushion-shaped platinum case with a diamond-set winding crown positioned at the 6 o'clock base
  • Silvered dial showing aged patination, radiating Roman numerals, and blued Breguet hands
  • Chatelaine composed of woven pearls attached to a stylized openwork bar and terminating in a square diamond-set floral panel

Research qualifications

  • The case back decoration, Edmond Jaeger mark, and internal movement are not visible in the primary photograph.
  • Dial exhibits visible surface aging and toning.

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

Cartier, Paris | A platinum and diamond-set pendant watch with pearl

Reviewed 2026-10-21 · Record 6913fb5f0a

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.

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