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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Wristwatch · Manual-winding oval wristwatch

Cartier Baignoire Allongée

Partially verified

This 18-karat yellow gold Cartier Baignoire Allongée wristwatch, dating from 1968, was produced by Cartier London. The elongated oval case measures 23mm in width and 52mm in length and is designed to follow the wrist's curvature. It features a cream-colored dial with black Roman numerals and blued-steel hands. The watch is powered by a manual-winding movement, specifically caliber 845 with 17 jewels, bearing movement number 886'520. The case, which includes a blue sapphire cabochon crown, is signed "Cartier London" on the dial and carries the JC punchmark of Jacques Cartier, identifying its London production. The date of manufacture is confirmed by London hallmarks found inside the case.

Side-profile view of the Cartier Baignoire Allongée wristwatch, showing the oval case and sapphire crown.
Side-profile view of the Cartier Baignoire Allongée wristwatch, showing the oval case and sapphire crown. — Monaco Legend Group / Invaluable. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
orbiscollectibles.com
Category
Wristwatch · Manual-winding oval wristwatch
Maker / attribution
Cartier
Reference
Not recorded
Catalogue / lot identifier
206855773
Source-reported date
1968
Source-reported place
United Kingdom
Source-reported serial
8'385

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and Dial Design

The watch features an elongated oval case crafted in 18-karat yellow gold, designed to contour to the wrist. The aesthetic is defined by its slender proportions, which contrast with other oval models such as the Maxi Oval. The cream-colored dial is marked with elongated black Roman numerals that conform to the oval shape of the bezel.

A blued-steel hand set indicates the time, while the winding crown is topped with a blue sapphire cabochon. These elements form a consistent visual signature of the Cartier design language from this period.

Evidence for this section
  • “the elongated case follows the natural curvature of the wrist”
  • “cream-coloured dial displays Cartier’s characteristic elongated black Roman numerals”
  • “distinctive blue sapphire cabochon crown”

Movement and Technical Details

Internally, the timepiece is equipped with a manual-winding movement identified as caliber 845, containing 17 jewels. The movement is marked with the serial number 886'520.

The watch displays a signed movement, case, and dial, which are consistent with the manufacturing standards attributed to Cartier London in the late 1960s.

Evidence for this section
  • “Manual, cal. 845, 17 jewels”
  • “Movement N°: 886'520”
  • “Signed: Case, dial and movement”

Provenance and Identification

The watch is attributed to Cartier London and is explicitly signed "Cartier London" on the dial. The production is further verified by the JC punch mark belonging to Jacques Cartier, applied to the gold case.

London date letters located inside the case establish the year of manufacture as 1968. The watch is documented as having originated from the Goldberger collection.

Evidence for this section
  • “produced by Cartier London”
  • “signed “Cartier London” on the dial”
  • “the London date letter stamped inside the case corresponds to 1968”
  • “JC punch of Jacques Cartier”

Open research questions

  • Can the specific manufacturing registry of Cartier London be consulted to confirm the exact production date against the provided hallmarks?
  • How does the caliber 845 movement relate to other Cartier London-specific configurations from the 1960s?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Cartier Baignoire Allongée
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
Case material18K yellow gold“18K yellow gold”
MovementManual, caliber 845, 17 jewels“Manual, cal. 845, 17 jewels”
Case dimensions23mm x 52mm“23mm width x 52mm length”
Case number8'385“Case N°: 8'385”
Movement number886'520“Movement N°: 886'520”
Maker's markJacques Cartier punch“JC punch of Jacques Cartier”
Hallmark date1968“the London date letter stamped inside the case corresponds to 1968”

Visible details

  • Elongated oval case geometry
  • Black Roman numeral hour markers on a cream dial
  • Blue sapphire cabochon set in the winding crown
  • Black leather strap attached to fixed or integrated lugs

Research qualifications

  • The exact origin of the 'Baignoire' name remains unconfirmed by definitive sources.
  • The broader classification and maker history are subject to ongoing research as per the auction house documentation.

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

Wristwatch, Cartier Baignoire Allongee, London, 1968

Reviewed 2026-11-02 · Record d5451b8493

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.