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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Pocket watch · Brooch lapel watch

C. Marcks & Co. 18K Gold and Diamond Phoenix Brooch Watch

Partially verified

This Swiss-origin lapel watch, dated by the seller to circa 1890, features a sculptural phoenix case crafted in 18K yellow and white gold adorned with diamonds along its wings and tail. According to the seller, the phoenix's body hinges forward to reveal a compact 10-jewel manual-wind movement and an original white enamel dial marked with black Roman numerals. The watch hangs via gold chain links from a matching diamond-set brooch pin. The case back is signed 'C. Marcks & Co, Bombay & Poona', reflecting retail distribution for the Indian market.

Front view of the 18K gold and diamond phoenix lapel watch suspended from its brooch pin
Front view of the 18K gold and diamond phoenix lapel watch suspended from its brooch pin — Renaissance Antiques. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
www.renaissanceantiques.com
Category
Pocket watch · Brooch lapel watch
Maker / attribution
C. Marcks & Co.
Reference
Not recorded
Catalogue / lot identifier
SSHO 115A
Source-reported date
circa 1890
Country
Switzerland

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Physical Configuration

The timepiece is designed as a lapel watch featuring a sculptural phoenix figure crafted in 18K white and yellow gold. The wings and tail are adorned with diamonds, and the figure hinges forward to reveal the watch dial.

The assembly includes a diamond-set brooch pin from which the watch is suspended. The internal dial is white enamel with black Roman numerals.

Evidence for this section
  • “Crafted of 18K white and yellow gold, the fantastical, mythical creature is rendered in remarkable detail.”
  • “Shimming white diamonds adorn the creature’s wings, trailing down the curved tail and enveloping the front of the watch in a dramatic silhouette.”
  • “The phoenix’s body hinges forward, revealing a small 10-jewel timepiece hidden inside.”
  • “Within, black Roman numerals display the time upon the original white enamel dial.”
  • “The incredible watch suspends from an 18K yellow and white gold pin featuring an array of white diamonds set in the center.”

Retailer and Origin

The case back is signed 'C. Marcks & Co, Bombay & Poona'. The source indicates this signature reflects the watch's intended market.

The seller describes the item as a Swiss lapel watch and assigns it to the Victorian era.

Evidence for this section
  • “The back of the case is signed C. Marcks & Co, Bombay & Poona , indicating the watch was crafted for the Indian market.”
  • “Watchmaking, art, and jewelry design blend together in the form of a diamond-encrusted phoenix in this sensational Swiss Victorian-era lapel watch.”

Condition and Maintenance

The seller reports that the timepiece has undergone a complete restoration and carries an 18-month warranty.

Observation of the dial and movement is restricted in the closed configuration, relying on the seller's reported specifications for the 10-jewel manual movement.

Evidence for this section
  • “This incredible timepiece bears a complete restoration and an 18-month warranty.”
  • “revealing a small 10-jewel timepiece hidden inside.”

Open research questions

  • What specific horological movement caliber is housed within the phoenix case?
  • Does the casing contain any specific hallmarks beyond the retailer's signature to confirm Swiss manufacture?
  • Is there evidence in the C. Marcks & Co. archives regarding specific dates of operation for their Poona branch?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for C. Marcks & Co. 18K Gold and Diamond Phoenix Brooch Watch
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
Case material18K white and yellow gold with diamonds“Crafted of 18K white and yellow gold, the fantastical, mythical creature is rendered in remarkable detail. Shimming white diamonds adorn the creature’s wings”
Movement jewel count10 jewels“revealing a small 10-jewel timepiece hidden inside”
Dial descriptionOriginal white enamel dial with black Roman numerals“Within, black Roman numerals display the time upon the original white enamel dial.”
Case signatureC. Marcks & Co, Bombay & Poona“The back of the case is signed C. Marcks & Co, Bombay & Poona”
SKUSSHO 115A“SKU: SSHO 115A”
Approximate Datingcirca 1890“Circa 1890”
SKUSSHO 115A“SKU: SSHO 115A”

Visible details

  • Sculptural textured yellow-gold phoenix figure perched on an oval watch casing
  • Wings and plumage pavé-set with diamonds in white gold or platinum-toned mountings
  • Suspended via four articulated gold suspension loops and a drop link from an ornate diamond-set brooch pin with an exposed pin stem
  • Portion of a white dial partially visible behind the phoenix's wing

Research qualifications

  • The dial interior, hands, and movement are largely obscured by the sculpted phoenix body in this closed view
  • Movement jewel count and case back signature are reported by the source and cannot be confirmed from the front photograph

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

18K Gold and Diamond Phoenix Brooch Watch By C. Marcks & Co. - Renaissance Antiques

Reviewed 2026-10-25 · Record 2c2504501f

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.