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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Wristwatch · Automatic wristwatch

Audemars Piguet Ref. 5402BC Royal Oak “Jumbo”

Partially verified

This Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” reference 5402BC is an 18-karat white gold wristwatch dated to 1980 by the cataloguing. The 39mm case features an octagonal bezel secured by eight hexagonal screws and is fitted with an integrated white gold bracelet. Its dark dial has a mini-tapisserie pattern set with diamond hour markers, a date aperture at 3 o'clock, and baton hands. The source reports it is powered by the automatic caliber 2121 with 36 jewels and bears movement number 211'840 and case number N° 111, noted as one of 150 white gold examples produced.

Front view of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref. 5402BC in white gold with diamond-set dial
Front view of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref. 5402BC in white gold with diamond-set dial — Phillips. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
www.phillips.com
Category
Wristwatch · Automatic wristwatch
Maker / attribution
Audemars Piguet
Reference
5402BC
Catalogue / lot identifier
113
Source-reported date
1980
Country
Switzerland
Source-reported serial
211'840

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Construction and Materiality

This watch is constructed from 18-karat white gold. It features a 39mm diameter case with an octagonal bezel secured by hexagonal screws.

The timepiece includes an integrated 18-karat white gold link bracelet and clasp. The source identifies this specific piece as number 111 of a reported 150 white gold examples produced.

Evidence for this section
  • “材料 18k white gold”
  • “尺寸 39mm diameter”
  • “its iconic octagonal bezel is secured with mirror-polished white gold hexagonal screws”
  • “this specimen is the 111th example of only 150 to have been manufactured by the firm in white gold”

Dial and Hands

The dial features a dark-colored mini-tapisserie guilloché pattern and is set with diamond hour markers.

The watch includes a date aperture at the 3 o'clock position and baton hands, which are described as tritium-free.

Evidence for this section
  • “The surface of the black dial features a guilloché mini-“tapisserie” pattern”
  • “It is adorned with tasteful diamond hour markers”
  • “The 5402BC, like other similar models with gemset dials has tritium free baton hands.”

Mechanism and Documentation

The watch is powered by the automatic caliber 2121 movement with 36 jewels, identified by movement number 211'840. The piece is accompanied by a fitted box and an extract from the archives confirming its sale on October 7, 1980.

The interior of the case and the movement itself were not documented or visually examined within the provided source materials.

Evidence for this section
  • “機芯 Automatic, cal. 2121, 36 jewels”
  • “Accompanied by Audemars Piguet fitted box and Extract from the Archives confirming the watch was sold on 7 Oct 1980 to Germany”

Open research questions

  • What is the current condition of the movement and internal case back, as these were not shown?
  • Does the watch exhibit any specific wear patterns beyond the general condition report?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Audemars Piguet Ref. 5402BC Royal Oak “Jumbo”
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
Case NumberN° 111“錶殼號碼 N° 111”
CalibreAutomatic, cal. 2121, 36 jewels“機芯 Automatic, cal. 2121, 36 jewels”
Case Material18k white gold“材料 18k white gold”
Diameter39mm“尺寸 39mm diameter”
Movement Number211'840“機芯編號 211'840”
Historical Production10 of the 150 white gold examples were converted to reference 4187BC between 1979 and 1991.“According to the same source of the 150 pieces made 10 were later transformed into ref 4187BC between 1979 and 1991.”

Visible details

  • Octagonal bezel with eight exposed hexagonal screw heads and vertical brushed finish
  • Dark mini-tapisserie pattern dial with applied diamond-set hour markers
  • Date aperture at 3 o'clock displaying numeral 18
  • Baton hands with applied AP monogram logo below 12 o'clock
  • Integrated white gold link bracelet attached to the case

Research qualifications

  • Movement and case back are not shown in the image; movement details are source-reported
  • Accompanying fitted box and archival extract are noted in text but not depicted

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

Audemars Piguet The Geneva Watch Auction: XXIV

Reviewed 2026-10-25 · Record 054a81853e

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.

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