Key-wound (cable) clocks: find the winding holes on the dial. Insert the crank key and turn it steadily, usually clockwise, while supporting the hood with your other hand. Stop just before the weight reaches the top of the case. Winding it hard up against the seatboard strains the cable. Wind each train (time, strike and chime) the same way, ideally once a week on the same day for eight-day clocks.
Chain-wound clocks: pull down gently on the free end of each chain (the end without the weight), and guide the weight up by hand so it does not swing. Stop a few inches below the top. Thirty-hour clocks usually have one chain and need winding every day.
Setting the time: move only the minute hand, turning it with a fingertip near its centre. On most chiming clocks, turn it clockwise and pause at each quarter so the chime can finish before you continue. Do not turn the hour hand on its own, or it will no longer match the strike. If the hour hand shows the wrong hour, many clocks let you move it separately (it is on a friction fit), but check with the clock's instructions or a clockmaker first.
Correcting the rate: if the clock gains, lower the pendulum bob by turning the rating nut beneath it (on most clocks, turn it to the left). If it loses, raise the bob. Small adjustments change the rate a lot, so adjust a little and observe for a day or two.
Silencing the chime: many clocks have a chime/silent lever or a selector on the dial. Use it rather than stopping the clock.