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The Encyclopedia of Horology

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Wire-Lug Wristwatches

Verified

A construction-defined category covering any early wristwatch, military or civilian, in which the strap lugs are simple soldered wire loops rather than lugs integrated into the case band, marking the earliest and least redesigned stage of pocket-to-wrist conversion.

Movement & mechanism

  • Case body unchanged in essential design from a pocket watch of the same maker and date
  • Wire lugs soldered at roughly four points to the case band to carry a leather strap
  • No fixed spring-bar lug construction, which arrived only with cases purpose-built for the wrist

Identification

  • Thin wire loops, sometimes asymmetric or unevenly spaced, distinct from the flatter integral lugs of later cases
  • Solder marks or repairs at the lug attachment points, a frequent site of wear and later restoration
  • Case back and movement layout otherwise identical to contemporary pocket watches

Terminology

  • Wire lug — a soldered wire loop lug, the earliest wrist-carrying fitting
  • Integral lug — the later, case-band-forged lug design that superseded wire lugs

Known variations

  • Civilian wire-lug conversion
  • Military wire-lug watch with crystal guard
  • Ladies' wire-lug wristlet

Pocket-watch ancestry

Wire-lug construction is the literal physical junction between the pocket watch and the wristwatch: the same case and movement as a pocket watch, with lugs added rather than any part of the watch redesigned, making this category the clearest surviving evidence of the wristwatch's origin as a modified pocket watch.

Collecting notes

The broadest and earliest category of wristwatch collecting; because wire lugs are simple to add or replace, collectors weigh case-metal and dial originality carefully, and later-added wire lugs on an unrelated pocket watch case are a recognised risk distinct from genuine period conversions.

Background

Wire-lug wristwatches consist of open-face cases fitted with fixed loops of wire soldered to the sides to secure a leather strap. Manufacturers created these timepieces by placing savonnette movements into open-face Lépine cases to ensure the seconds sub-dial correctly appeared at the 6 o'clock position. While some early examples existed, these watches remained primarily a tool for military officers rather than a civilian fashion item before the First World War. The design avoided the long pendants typically associated with pocket watches to maintain a profile suitable for the wrist.

Written from the sources listed under Sources (makers, museums, auction houses and specialist publications are paraphrased, not reproduced); each statement was checked against the cited text, and claims a maker makes about its own work are attributed to it.

Defining features

  • Movements derived from savonnette pocket watches were used to align the winding crown at the 3 o'clock position.

Later development

  • The Anglo-Swiss company Dimier Brothers registered a design for such watches in 1903, providing early documentary evidence of their production.
  • According to Vintage Watch Straps, reputable manufacturers like IWC and Omega produced purpose-made wire-lug wristwatches well before the start of the First World War.
  • Rapid army expansion during the First World War created a surge in demand that forced the emergency conversion of ladies' fob watches into men's wristwatches.

Where sources differ

  • Definition. This record gives: “A construction-defined category covering any early wristwatch, military or civilian, in which the strap lugs are simple soldered wire loops rather than lugs integrated into the case band, marking the earliest and least redesigned stage of pocket-to-wrist conversion”. Vintage Watch Straps holds that purpose-made wire-lug wristwatches were assembled from specialised components rather than converted from pocket watches; conversions of ladies' fob watches came with the wartime surge in demand.

Photographs

Question] What are your thoughts on wire lugs? : r/Watches
Question] What are your thoughts on wire lugs? : r/Watches — reddit.com, Rights unverified — web image search result, review pending. Web page (reddit.com)
Minimalist Bauhaus Watch Slender Wire Lug Case Swiss Quartz Sapphire Glass
Minimalist Bauhaus Watch Slender Wire Lug Case Swiss Quartz Sapphire Glass — pardwincn.com, Rights unverified — web image search result, review pending. Web page (pardwincn.com)
The ABCs of Time: Everything about Watch Lugs, from Early Wire Lugs to the Most Expressive Designs
The ABCs of Time: Everything about Watch Lugs, from Early Wire Lugs to the Most Expressive Designs — monochrome-watches.com, Rights unverified — web image search result, review pending. Web page (monochrome-watches.com)
Rolex 9ct wire-lug gentleman's wristwatch, import hallmarks Glasgow ...
Rolex 9ct wire-lug gentleman's wristwatch, import hallmarks Glasgow ... — watch-auctions.co.uk, Rights unverified — web image search result, review pending. Web page (watch-auctions.co.uk)
Chrome cased wire-lug wristwatch for repair; together with three lady's ...
Chrome cased wire-lug wristwatch for repair; together with three lady's ... — easyliveauction.com, Rights unverified — web image search result, review pending. Web page (easyliveauction.com)
Rolex WWI period 9ct trench wire-lug wristwatch, signed white dial with ...
Rolex WWI period 9ct trench wire-lug wristwatch, signed white dial with ... — watch-auctions.co.uk, Rights unverified — web image search result, review pending. Web page (watch-auctions.co.uk)
Swiss 9ct wire-lug gentleman's wristwatch, London 1922, enamel dial ...
Swiss 9ct wire-lug gentleman's wristwatch, London 1922, enamel dial ... — auctions.gardinerhoulgate.co.uk, Rights unverified — web image search result, review pending. Web page (auctions.gardinerhoulgate.co.uk)
Vintage 33mm Cushion Case Wire Lug Men's Mechanical Wristwatch .900 ...
Vintage 33mm Cushion Case Wire Lug Men's Mechanical Wristwatch .900 ... — ebay.com, Rights unverified — web image search result, review pending. Web page (ebay.com)
1904 LONGINES Mechanical Wristwatch Ref. 1342 Push Button Set Wire Lug ...
1904 LONGINES Mechanical Wristwatch Ref. 1342 Push Button Set Wire Lug ... — Secondhand Horology, Rights pending — source and visual checks completed; permission not yet requested. Web page (secondhandhorology.com)
1935 LONGINES Military Wristwatch Cal. 10.68Z Wire Lug Trench Watch ...
1935 LONGINES Military Wristwatch Cal. 10.68Z Wire Lug Trench Watch ... — Secondhand Horology, Rights pending — source and visual checks completed; permission not yet requested. Web page (secondhandhorology.com)
Zenith 9ct wire-lug gentleman's wristwatch, Chester 1934, mo... in...
Zenith 9ct wire-lug gentleman's wristwatch, Chester 1934, mo... in... — Gardiner Houlgate / Lot-Art, Rights pending — source and visual checks completed; permission not yet requested. Web page (lot-art.com)
Vintage Longines wristwatch featuring wire lugs and a patinated dial
Vintage Longines wristwatch featuring wire lugs and a patinated dial — Second Hand Horology, Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Web page (secondhandhorology.com)
Three-quarter view of a vintage Longines wire lug wristwatch on a leather strap
Three-quarter view of a vintage Longines wire lug wristwatch on a leather strap — Second Hand Horology, Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Web page (secondhandhorology.com)
Frontal view of a vintage Longines wire lug wristwatch
Frontal view of a vintage Longines wire lug wristwatch — Second Hand Horology, Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Web page (secondhandhorology.com)
Angled view of a vintage Longines wire lug wristwatch on a leather bund strap
Angled view of a vintage Longines wire lug wristwatch on a leather bund strap — Second Hand Horology, Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Web page (secondhandhorology.com)
Side-angled view of a vintage Longines wire lug wristwatch dial
Side-angled view of a vintage Longines wire lug wristwatch dial — Second Hand Horology, Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Web page (secondhandhorology.com)

Photographs are illustrative examples of the type, not necessarily the exact object described. Verify details against the source file page.

Sources & references

  1. The first men's wristwatches, Vintage Watch Straps, retrieved 2026-10-30 (paraphrased; text © the publisher)
  2. Converted wristwatches, Vintage Watch Straps, retrieved 2026-10-30 (paraphrased; text © the publisher)
  3. Anatomy of a trench watch, Vintage Watch Straps, retrieved 2026-10-30 (paraphrased; text © the publisher)
  4. Cutmore, M., Watches 1850–1980

Where sources disagree, the disagreement is stated rather than resolved silently.