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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Wristwatch · Chronograph

Universal Genève Steel Chronograph Wristwatch

Partially verified

According to Christie's, this Universal Genève chronograph wristwatch dates to circa the 1940s. The watch features a 35 mm steel case housing a manually wound movement. Its black dial incorporates three subsidiary registers, an outer telemetric calibration, and a base 3000 scale. Rectangular pushers flank the winding crown on the right side of the case, and the watch is fitted with a textured black strap. Christie's notes that the timepiece was offered without its original box or papers.

Front view of the Universal Genève steel chronograph wristwatch on a black strap
Front view of the Universal Genève steel chronograph wristwatch on a black strap — Christie's. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
onlineonly.christies.com
Category
Wristwatch · Chronograph
Maker / attribution
Universal Genève
Reference
Not recorded
Catalogue / lot identifier
316
Source-reported date
circa 1940s
Country
Switzerland

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Identity and Case Construction

According to Christie's, this Universal Genève steel chronograph wristwatch dates to circa the 1940s. The case is catalogued as measuring 35 mm in diameter. Visible observation records straight lugs and a winding crown flanked by rectangular pushers at the 2 and 4 o'clock positions.

The auctioneer's condition report characterizes the case as having "heavy scratches and nicks throughout" and notes that the crystal displays "light scratches and nicks." The case back is reported to have "moderate scratches and heavy nicks."

Evidence for this section
  • “CIRCA: 1940s”
  • “CASE MATERIAL: Steel”
  • “CASE DIAMETER: 35mm”
  • “The watch is in good condition with heavy scratches and nicks throughout the case.”
  • “The crystal has light scratches and nicks.”
  • “The case back is in good condition with moderate scratches and heavy nicks.”
  • “Rectangular chronograph pushers positioned at 2 and 4 o'clock flanking the winding crown.”

Dial Configuration and Observed Components

The dial is catalogued as black. Observations record three subsidiary dials positioned at 3, 6, and 9 o'clock, along with gilt markings that include an outer base 3000 tachymeter scale and telemeter track. The condition report states that the dial "has developed a heavy patina with fading and spotting."

The auctioneer explicitly states that "the hands are not original to the watch." In addition, visual observation records that the timepiece is fitted with a textured black leather or composite strap.

Evidence for this section
  • “DIAL: Black”
  • “The dial has developed a heavy patina with fading and spotting.”
  • “The hands are not original to the watch.”
  • “Three subsidiary dials arranged at the 3, 6, and 9 o'clock positions.”
  • “Black dial with gilt markings, including an outer base 3000 tachymeter scale and telemeter track.”
  • “Textured black leather or composite strap attached to straight lugs.”

Movement Functionality and Source Limitations

The watch houses a manually wound movement featuring chronograph functionality. Christie's notes that "the movement is running at the time of cataloging," but states that "the chronograph and pushers do not function properly" and that the movement was not tested for accuracy.

The auction documentation does not record a movement caliber, reference number, or case serial number. Christie's also lists "BOX: No" and "PAPERS: No," indicating the absence of original packaging and documentation in this lot.

Evidence for this section
  • “MOVEMENT: Manual”
  • “FUNCTIONS: Chronograph”
  • “The movement is running at the time of cataloging.”
  • “The chronograph and pushers do not function properly.”
  • “The movement has not been tested for accuracy.”
  • “BOX: No”
  • “PAPERS: No”

Open research questions

  • What movement caliber (such as Calibre 285 or related family) is installed in this watch?
  • What reference and serial numbers, if any, are stamped on the exterior or interior of the case back?
  • What was the original handset configuration and style for this reference prior to replacement?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Universal Genève Steel Chronograph Wristwatch
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
Case MaterialSteel“CASE MATERIAL: Steel”
Case Diameter35mm“CASE DIAMETER: 35mm”
Dial ColorBlack“DIAL: Black”
Movement TypeManual“MOVEMENT: Manual”
FunctionsChronograph“FUNCTIONS: Chronograph”
Circa1940s“CIRCA: 1940s”
Original BoxNo“BOX: No”
Original PapersNo“PAPERS: No”

Visible details

  • Three subsidiary dials arranged at the 3, 6, and 9 o'clock positions.
  • Black dial with gilt markings, including an outer base 3000 tachymeter scale and telemeter track.
  • Rectangular chronograph pushers positioned at 2 and 4 o'clock flanking the winding crown.
  • Textured black leather or composite strap attached to straight lugs.

Research qualifications

  • Christie's condition report specifies that the hands are not original to the watch.
  • Christie's reports that the chronograph and pushers do not function properly.
  • Movement caliber, reference, and serial numbers are not disclosed.

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

UNIVERSAL GENEVE, A FINE STEEL CHRONOGRAPH WRISTWATCH, | Christie’s

Reviewed 2026-10-21 · Record f4e6ccfc3c

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.

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