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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Wristwatch · Chronograph

Universal Genève 18k Chronograph, Ref. 1608972

Partially verified

This Universal Genève chronograph wristwatch dates to circa the 1940s and features a 37 mm case reported to be 18k gold. The silvered dial is configured with two subsidiary registers at 3 and 9 o'clock, applied hour markers, and an outer blue tachymeter track. The lot description attributes timekeeping and chronograph functions to the manual-wind caliber 285. Two rectangular pushers flank the winding crown on the case band. According to the auction report, the dial has been refinished, the watch is fitted with an 18k gold buckle, and the chronograph mechanism was not functioning at cataloguing.

Front view of the Universal Genève 18k gold chronograph wristwatch, Ref. 1608972
Front view of the Universal Genève 18k gold chronograph wristwatch, Ref. 1608972 — Christie's. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
onlineonly.christies.com
Category
Wristwatch · Chronograph
Maker / attribution
Universal Genève
Reference
1608972
Catalogue / lot identifier
181
Source-reported date
circa 1940s
Country
Switzerland

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Identity and Case Construction

This Universal Genève wristwatch is catalogued under reference 1608972 with a date of circa 1940s. The case is reported as 18k gold with a diameter of 37 mm. Visual inspection reveals a yellow-tone case with a smooth bezel, angular lugs, and rectangular chronograph pushers flanking a knurled crown at 3 o'clock.

The watch is shown fitted on a smooth brown leather strap, and the auction record lists an 18k gold buckle among the accessories. According to the seller's condition report, the watch has been polished, and watchmaker's marks are noted on the inside of the case back.

Evidence for this section
  • “CIRCA: 1940s”
  • “CASE MATERIAL: 18k gold”
  • “CASE DIAMETER: 37mm”
  • “Yellow-tone case with smooth bezel and angular lugs”
  • “Rectangular chronograph pushers flanking a knurled crown at 3 o'clock”
  • “ACCESSORIES: 18k gold buckle”
  • “The watch has been polished. The inside case back has watchmaker’s marks.”

Dial Configuration and Condition

The dial is catalogued as silvered and is visually configured with two subsidiary counters at 3 and 9 o'clock. The display incorporates Arabic numerals at 12 and 6 alongside dagger hour markers, bounded along the perimeter by a blue printed tachymeter scale.

The cataloguer notes that the dial has been refinished and displays signs of age and wear. The hour markers and hands are also reported to have developed patina.

Evidence for this section
  • “DIAL: Silvered”
  • “Two subsidiary counters positioned at 3 and 9 o'clock”
  • “Silvered dial with Arabic numerals at 12 and 6 alongside dagger hour markers”
  • “Outer perimeter displays a blue printed tachymeter scale”
  • “The dial has been refinished and shows some signs of age and wear. The hour markers and hands have developed patina.”

Movement Attribution and Reported Operation

The lot documentation lists the movement as a manual-wind caliber 285 with chronograph function. No interior movement images are supplied in the source documentation, leaving the caliber attribution unverified by direct observation.

The auction condition report states that the base movement was in working order at the time of cataloguing consistent with its age, but was not tested for accuracy. The chronograph mechanism was reported as not working at cataloguing, with the note that a full service is required.

Evidence for this section
  • “MOVEMENT: Manual”
  • “FUNCTIONS: Chronograph”
  • “CALIBER: 285”
  • “The chronograph is not working at the time of cataloguing. A full service is required to fix this.”
  • “The movement is in working order at the time of cataloging, consistent with the age of the watch. The movement has not been tested for accuracy.”

Open research questions

  • Does 1608972 correspond to a Universal Genève case serial number rather than a standard model reference number?
  • What specific markings, signatures, or serial numbers are stamped on the caliber 285 movement plate and inner case back?
  • What specific mechanical defects or missing components are causing the chronograph mechanism to not function?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Universal Genève 18k Chronograph, Ref. 1608972
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
Circa1940s“CIRCA: 1940s”
Case material18k gold“CASE MATERIAL: 18k gold”
Case diameter37mm“CASE DIAMETER: 37mm”
DialSilvered“DIAL: Silvered”
MovementManual“MOVEMENT: Manual”
Caliber285“CALIBER: 285”
Accessories18k gold buckle“ACCESSORIES: 18k gold buckle”
BoxNo“BOX: No”
PapersNo“PAPERS: No”

Visible details

  • Yellow-tone case with smooth bezel and angular lugs
  • Silvered dial with Arabic numerals at 12 and 6 alongside dagger hour markers
  • Two subsidiary counters positioned at 3 and 9 o'clock
  • Outer perimeter displays a blue printed tachymeter scale
  • Rectangular chronograph pushers flanking a knurled crown at 3 o'clock
  • Fitted on a smooth brown leather strap

Research qualifications

  • Case back, buckle, and movement are not visible in the supplied photograph
  • Source notes the watch has been polished and the dial has been refinished
  • Source states the chronograph was not functioning at the time of cataloguing

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

UNIVERSAL GENEVE, 18K CHRONOGRAPH, REF. 1608972, | Christie’s

Reviewed 2026-10-21 · Record ead09545ca

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.

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