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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Wristwatch · Rectangular wristwatch

Movado Novoplan Ref. 12205

Partially verified

This Movado Novoplan, reference 12205, is a manual-winding wristwatch dating to the 1930s. It is constructed with a rectangular stainless steel case measuring 18mm by 38mm, featuring a curved case back and stepped detailing on the upper and lower lugs. The grey dial displays black Arabic numerals at the three, five, seven, nine, and twelve o'clock positions, paired with a blued-steel arrow-style handset and a subsidiary seconds dial positioned at the six o'clock mark. The watch is powered by a Movado Calibre C440 manual-winding movement. The dial includes the printed inscription 'FAB SUISSE' and 'SWISS MADE'. The watch is currently fitted with a red leather strap. The vendor describes the dial as having light patina throughout with clear printing, and the case exhibits visible surface wear consistent with age.

Front view of the Movado Novoplan Ref. 12205 showing the grey dial, blued-steel handset, and stepped steel case.
Front view of the Movado Novoplan Ref. 12205 showing the grey dial, blued-steel handset, and stepped steel case. — Oliver & Clarke. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
oliverandclarke.com
Category
Wristwatch · Rectangular wristwatch
Maker / attribution
Movado
Reference
12205
Catalogue / lot identifier
Source URL identifies the listing
Source-reported date
circa 1930s
Source-reported place
Switzerland

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and Dial

The watch features a stainless steel rectangular case measuring 18mm by 38mm. The design incorporates a curved back and prominent stepped detailing on both the upper and lower sections of the case body. The lugs integrate into this stepped structure, contributing to the overall geometric profile of the watch case.

The grey dial surface is marked with Arabic numerals at the primary hour intervals, with a subsidiary seconds register positioned at the six o'clock location. The dial features black printed text including the brand name and the 'FAB SUISSE' designation above the twelve o'clock marker. The time is indicated by a set of blued-steel arrow-shaped hands.

Evidence for this section
  • “rectangular 18mm x 38mm stainless steel case with a curved back and lovely 'stepping' on the upper and lower case”
  • “grey dial within presents nicely, with a largely clean surface showing just a light patina throughout and clear black printing.”

Movement and Function

The timepiece is powered by a Movado Calibre C440 manual-winding movement. This movement is housed within the steel case and governs the central hour and minute functions, as well as the subsidiary seconds display located on the lower half of the dial.

The vendor identifies the movement as being manufactured by Movado. The manual-winding mechanism is engaged via the crown on the side of the watch case.

Evidence for this section
  • “mated to Movado's own Calibre C440 manual-winding movement beneath.”

Condition

The auction description reports that the dial surface is largely clean, showing light patina throughout the grey finish. The black printed elements on the dial are described as clear.

The exterior of the stainless steel case displays general wear consistent with its age. The watch is currently paired with a red leather strap.

Evidence for this section
  • “The grey dial within presents nicely, with a largely clean surface showing just a light patina throughout and clear black printing.”

Open research questions

  • What is the specific production date range for the Calibre C440?
  • Does the current red leather strap reflect a period-correct material or style for this reference?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Movado Novoplan Ref. 12205
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
MakerMovado“Movado Factories (yes, that was the full name)”
Reference12205“a Novoplan Ref. 12205”
Case dimensions18mm x 38mm“rectangular 18mm x 38mm stainless steel case”
MovementCalibre C440“Movado's own Calibre C440 manual-winding movement”
Dial detailFab Suisse printing“grey dial within presents nicely, with a largely clean surface showing just a light patina throughout and clear black printing.”
Case featuresStepped lugs“lovely 'stepping' on the upper and lower case.”

Visible details

  • Rectangular stainless steel case with stepped lug design
  • Grey dial with subsidiary seconds at six o'clock
  • Blued-steel arrow handset
  • Red leather strap with fine texture

Research qualifications

  • Movement not shown in photographs
  • Exact date of manufacture within the 1930s is not specified

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

Movado Novoplan Ref. 12205 - Grey 'Fab Suisse' Dial

Reviewed 2026-11-02 · Record a5e6c57f5a

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.

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