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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Wristwatch · Rectangular wristwatch

Universal Genève 18k Rectangular Wristwatch

Partially verified

This Universal Genève wristwatch features an 18k yellow gold rectangular case measuring 38 mm by 22.5 mm, dated by the auction house to circa 1960. The silvered dial features applied baton hour markers, faceted dauphine hands, and the inscription 'UNIVERSAL GENEVE' below twelve o'clock, with 'SWISS' marked at the lower edge. According to the auction catalogue, the timepiece is powered by a manual-winding caliber UG 800 movement. It is fitted with a fluted crown at three o'clock and mounted on a woven black-and-white houndstooth fabric strap.

Universal Genève 18k gold rectangular wristwatch on patterned fabric strap
Universal Genève 18k gold rectangular wristwatch on patterned fabric strap — Christie's. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
onlineonly.christies.com
Category
Wristwatch · Rectangular wristwatch
Maker / attribution
Universal Genève
Reference
Not recorded
Catalogue / lot identifier
194
Source-reported date
circa 1960
Country
Switzerland

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case Construction and Markings

The watch features a rectangular 18k gold case measuring 38 by 22.5 mm, observed with straight lugs and a fluted winding crown situated at three o'clock. Auction condition notes record light scratches throughout the case and case back, as well as small nicks along the 9 o'clock side of the bezel and the backs of the lugs.

According to the condition report, a hallmark is present and described as crisp on the side of the case at 4 o'clock. The report notes that exterior case back numbers are crisp, accompanied by hand-engraved numbers below the engraved numbers, while the interior of the case back bears watchmaker's marks.

Evidence for this section
  • “CASE MATERIAL: 18k gold”
  • “CASE DIAMETER: 38 X 22.5mm”
  • “Rectangular yellow gold case with straight lugs and fluted crown at 3 o'clock”
  • “The hallmark is crisp to the side of the case at 4 o'clock.”
  • “The back of the lugs show some signs of wear with small nicks.”
  • “The numbers are crisp. There are hand engraved numbers below the engraved numbers. The inside of the case back has watchmaker's marks.”

Dial and Hands

The watch features a silvered dial with applied baton hour markers and central faceted dauphine hands, signed 'UNIVERSAL GENEVE' below 12 o'clock and 'SWISS' at 6 o'clock. It is mounted on a woven black-and-white houndstooth patterned fabric strap.

Christie's condition report notes that the dial and hands appeared to be original at the time of cataloguing, with loose material on the dial surface and light signs of wear along its outer edge.

Evidence for this section
  • “DIAL: Silvered”
  • “Silvered dial with applied baton hour markers and central faceted dauphine hands”
  • “Signed 'UNIVERSAL GENEVE' below 12 o'clock and 'SWISS' at 6 o'clock”
  • “Mounted on a woven black-and-white houndstooth patterned fabric strap”
  • “The dial and hands are in good condition and appear to be original.”
  • “The dial has some loose material on it and shows some light signs of wear to its outer edge.”

Reported Movement and Documentation Limits

The catalog records the watch as being powered by a manual-winding caliber UG 800 movement. Christie's noted that the movement was in working order at the time of cataloguing but was not tested for accuracy; the movement itself is not depicted in the provided photograph.

The piece is dated to circa 1960. The lot did not include original box or papers, and specific reference or serial digits are not recorded in the listing text.

Evidence for this section
  • “CIRCA: 1960”
  • “CALIBER: UG 800”
  • “MOVEMENT: Manual”
  • “The movement is in working order at the time of cataloging, consistent with the age of the watch. The movement has not been tested for accuracy.”
  • “BOX: No PAPERS: No”

Open research questions

  • What specific reference and serial numbers are stamped on the exterior case back?
  • What numbers or notations are hand-engraved beneath the stamped case back numbers, and what service records or dates are marked inside the case back?
  • What are the specific movement markings, jewel count, and finish of the caliber UG 800 mechanism?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Universal Genève 18k Rectangular Wristwatch
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
Case Material18k gold“CASE MATERIAL: 18k gold”
Case Dimensions38 X 22.5mm“CASE DIAMETER: 38 X 22.5mm”
DialSilvered“DIAL: Silvered”
Movement TypeManual“MOVEMENT: Manual”
CaliberUG 800“CALIBER: UG 800”
Circa1960“CIRCA: 1960”
Original PackagingNo“BOX: No”
Accompanying PapersNo“PAPERS: No”

Visible details

  • Rectangular yellow gold case with straight lugs and fluted crown at 3 o'clock
  • Silvered dial with applied baton hour markers and central faceted dauphine hands
  • Signed 'UNIVERSAL GENEVE' below 12 o'clock and 'SWISS' at 6 o'clock
  • Mounted on a woven black-and-white houndstooth patterned fabric strap

Research qualifications

  • Movement and interior case back are not shown in the provided photograph.
  • Reference and case serial numbers are not specified in the auction record.

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

UNIVERSAL GENEVE, 18K RECTANGULAR WRISTWATCH, | Christie’s

Reviewed 2026-10-21 · Record 7cff25e92b

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.

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