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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Wristwatch · Self-winding wristwatch

Movado Kingmatic Sub-Sea Reference 5261

Partially verified

This Movado Kingmatic Sub-Sea, reference 5261, dates from the 1960s. It is constructed with an 18K yellow gold case measuring 35mm in diameter. The watch features a silver sunburst dial with applied yellow gold hour markers and gold hands. It utilizes the "Sub-Sea" designation, a term introduced by Movado in the 1930s to denote water-resistant engineering, which is applied here to a dress-oriented reference. The case back features a "Kingmatic" medallion, and the crown is marked with the Movado logo. The movement is self-winding, although the specific caliber is not specified. It is currently fitted with a 2-piece handmade black alligator leather strap. The auction description reports the watch is in working order, though its service history remains unknown. The dial features tritium luminous plots at the tip of each marker and within the hands, with varying degrees of degradation.

Front view of the Movado Kingmatic Sub-Sea reference 5261 showing the silver sunburst dial, applied markers, and date aperture.
Front view of the Movado Kingmatic Sub-Sea reference 5261 showing the silver sunburst dial, applied markers, and date aperture. — Craft & Tailored. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
craftandtailored.com
Category
Wristwatch · Self-winding wristwatch
Maker / attribution
Movado
Reference
5261
Catalogue / lot identifier
MOVKMSS5261
Source-reported date
1960s
Source-reported place
Switzerland
Source-reported serial
53X

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and Dial

The watch is housed in an 18K yellow gold case measuring 35mm. The design is noted for its mid-century styling, balancing dress aesthetics with the brand's Sub-Sea water-resistant engineering. The screw-down case back incorporates a specific Kingmatic medallion, and the winding crown retains the original Movado logo.

The silver sunburst dial is original and features gold applied markers. Tritium lume plots are positioned at the tip of each marker. The gold-toned hands are original to the piece. The dial remains free of structural damage, showing only minor age-related wear, while the lume material exhibits some degradation.

Evidence for this section
  • “The classically designed, 18K yellow gold case remains in exceptional condition”
  • “The screw-down case back shows minimal signs of use and retains the "Kingmatic" medallion.”
  • “The original silver sunburst dial features gold applied markers”
  • “The small tritium lume plots located at the tip of each marker exhibit some degradation”

Movement and Function

The piece is identified as a Kingmatic model, a series historically associated with the brand's self-winding movements. The internal mechanics are designed to provide water resistance under the Sub-Sea designation.

The watch is described as being in running condition. The auction house explicitly states that the service history is unknown and the movement has not been professionally serviced by them.

Evidence for this section
  • “The watch is running, but the service history is unknown.”
  • “Movado introduced water-resistant wristwatches under the “Sub-Sea” designation”

Provenance and Documentation

The watch is provided as the timepiece only, with no additional factory accessories, boxes, or documentation. It is mounted on a non-original 2-piece handmade black alligator leather strap.

The item is listed under the stock number MOVKMSS5261, with a case serial number beginning with 53X.

Evidence for this section
  • “ACCESSORIES None.”
  • “The watch comes supplied on a 2pc black alligator leather strap.”

Open research questions

  • What is the specific movement caliber used in reference 5261?
  • What is the full serial number of the unit?
  • Does the case back have internal hallmark engravings indicating the year of production?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Movado Kingmatic Sub-Sea Reference 5261
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
BrandMovado“Brand Movado”
Reference5261“Model 5261”
Material18K Yellow Gold“Material 18K Yellow Gold”
Dial ColorSilver“Dial Silver”
Diameter35mm“Millimeters 35”
Serial Number53X“Serial 53X”
Strap2pc Handmade Black Alligator Strap“Strap 2pc Handmade Black Alligator Strap”

Visible details

  • Sunburst finish on the silver-colored dial
  • Date aperture positioned at 3 o'clock
  • Movado logo on the crown
  • Applied gold-tone hour markers

Research qualifications

  • Service history is unknown
  • Hour hands lack visible luminous material
  • Tritium plots at markers exhibit degradation

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.