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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Pocket watch · Open-face pocket watch

Cortébert Art Deco Pocket Watch in 14K Yellow Gold and Enamel

Partially verified

According to the auction catalog, this open-face Art Deco pocket watch by Cortébert dates to circa 1930 and features a 14K yellow gold and enamel case measuring 48.5 mm across, stamped with case number 1 544 096 by Favre & Perret S.A. The gilded textured dial presents applied Breguet numerals, openwork lozenge hands, and a subsidiary seconds register at 6 o'clock. The source records an unnumbered 16''' rhodium-plated movement equipped with a straight-line lever escapement and screwed gold chatons.

Dial view of the Cortébert open-face pocket watch showing Breguet numerals and subsidiary seconds
Dial view of the Cortébert open-face pocket watch showing Breguet numerals and subsidiary seconds — Antiquorum. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
catalog.antiquorum.swiss
Category
Pocket watch · Open-face pocket watch
Maker / attribution
Cortébert
Reference
Not recorded
Catalogue / lot identifier
76
Source-reported date
circa 1930
Source-reported place
Switzerland
Source-reported serial
1 544 096

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case Construction and Exterior Decoration

According to the auction catalog, the watch features an open-face, round-shaped case measuring 48.5 mm in diameter, with an approximate total weight of 59.6 grams. The case material is listed as 14K yellow gold and enamel, numbered 1 544 096 and recorded as made by Manufacture Favre & Perret S.A., La Chaux-de-Fonds.

While visual inspection of the primary dial image shows a fluted winding crown and an oval suspension bow positioned at 12 o'clock, the reverse decoration is known only from the catalog description. The source describes an engine-turned guilloché case-back with black and green enamelled champlevé geometric patterns and a central escutcheon, housing an internal gilded metal cuvette.

Evidence for this section
  • “14K yellow gold and enamel, open-face, keyless-winding, round-shaped, Art Deco pocket watch, with subsidiary seconds at 6.”
  • “Case No. 1 544 096 (by Manufacture Favre & Perret S.A., La Chaux-de-Fonds)”
  • “Fluted winding crown with an oval suspension bow positioned at 12 o'clock”
  • “Case-back guilloché (engine-turned), with black and green enamelled champlevé geometric patterns, with, in the centre, an escutcheon; gilded metal cuvette (dome).”

Dial Display and Visible Condition

The dial presents a golden tone with a textured engine-turned diamond pattern, applied Breguet-style numerals, openwork lozenge hands, and a sunken subsidiary seconds subdial at the 6 o'clock position. The auction catalog describes the dial as a gilded colour metallic dial with applied Breguet numerals and yellow gold lozenge hands.

Direct observation reveals minor surface wear and marks near the 4 and 5 hour markers. In its condition assessment, the auction house grades the dial as 'Good', noting that it is 'Slightly oxidized' and 'Slightly scratched', while cataloging the hands as 'Original'.

Evidence for this section
  • “Golden-toned dial with textured engine-turned diamond pattern”
  • “Minor surface wear and marks visible near the 4 and 5 hour markers”
  • “Gilded colour metallic dial, with suspended applied “Breguet” numerals; yellow gold “Lozenge” hands.”
  • “Dial: 3-6-8-01 Good Slightly oxidized Slightly scratched HANDS Original”

Reported Movement and Mechanical State

The movement is not visible in the provided primary photograph, so its specifications rely on the auction description. The catalog records an unnumbered 16''' rhodium-plated caliber with a going barrel, gold screwed-chatons, a straight-line lever escapement, a monometallic screw-balance, a self-compensating Breguet hairspring, and a polished steel index-regulator.

The auction house grades the movement condition as 'Good' and 'Slightly scratched', but states 'Repair required, at buyer's expense'. The catalog terms also explicitly disclaim guarantees regarding movement functioning, precision, or completeness.

Evidence for this section
  • “Movement 16’’’, rhodium-plated, going barrel, gold screwed-chatons (setting), straight-line lever escapement, monometallic screw-balance and self-compensating Breguet hairspring, polished steel index-regulator.”
  • “Movement No. unnumbered”
  • “Movement: 3-8** Good Slightly scratched Repair required, at buyer's expense”
  • “For timepieces, we guarantee neither the functioning nor the precision of the movement, nor the water-resistance of the case.”

Open research questions

  • What specific mechanical fault or missing component prompted the catalog note that repair is required?
  • What hallmarks and maker marks from Favre & Perret S.A. are stamped inside the case back or cuvette?
  • Is the central escutcheon on the enamelled case back engraved with a monogram or unengraved?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Cortébert Art Deco Pocket Watch in 14K Yellow Gold and Enamel
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
Case Number1 544 096“Case No. 1 544 096”
Case Material14K yellow gold and enamel“Material 14K yellow gold and enamel”
Caliber16'''“Caliber 16’’’, straight-line lever escapement”
Case MakerManufacture Favre & Perret S.A., La Chaux-de-Fonds“(by Manufacture Favre & Perret S.A., La Chaux-de-Fonds)”
Diameter48.5 mm“Dimensions 48.5 mm.”
Weight59.6 gr. (approx.)“Weight 59.6 gr. (approx.)”
Case Condition GradeGood (Dent(s))“Case: 3-19 Good Dent(s)”
Cuvette MaterialGilded metal“gilded metal cuvette (dome)”

Visible details

  • Golden-toned dial with textured engine-turned diamond pattern
  • Applied Breguet-style hour numerals and openwork lozenge-style hands
  • Sunken subsidiary seconds subdial at the 6 o'clock position
  • Fluted winding crown with an oval suspension bow positioned at 12 o'clock
  • Minor surface wear and marks visible near the 4 and 5 hour markers

Research qualifications

  • The movement and the enamel-decorated case back described by the catalog are not visible in the primary dial photograph
  • The auction house notes that repair is required at the buyer's expense, and that the movement and dial are slightly scratched

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

Manufacture Cortébert Watch Co., Juillard & Co. Art Deco pocket watch; 14K yellow gold and enamel | Only Online Auction | Hong Kong, October 14, 2021

Reviewed 2026-10-21 · Record 0cb9bc056a

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.

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