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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Pocket watch · Fob watch

Cartier gold and enamel fob watch with chain

Partially verified

This Cartier fob watch, dating to approximately 1910, is constructed from 18K gold, enamel, and diamonds. The piece is an extra-slim keyless watch accompanied by a coordinating chain. The case features translucent blue enamel over engine-turning, decorated with a paillon laurel leaf circle and a center rose-cut diamond. The bezels are finished in opaque white enamel. The silver dial is engine-turned and displays radial Roman numerals, complemented by blued steel Breguet hands. The watch is powered by a 10-ligne gilt brass bar caliber movement containing 15 jewels. It incorporates a straight-line lever escapement, a cut bimetallic compensation balance, and a flat balance spring. The chain mirrors the watch's materials, featuring long links of translucent blue enamel over engine-turning, separated by small pearls. The dial is signed by Cartier, with Paris and Londres listed in the source provenance documentation.

The watch and its matching enamel chain, showing the blue enamel back and the silver engine-turned dial.
The watch and its matching enamel chain, showing the blue enamel back and the silver engine-turned dial. — Antiquorum. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
catalog.antiquorum.swiss
Category
Pocket watch · Fob watch
Maker / attribution
Cartier
Reference
Not recorded
Catalogue / lot identifier
91
Source-reported date
circa 1910
Source-reported place
France

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and Dial Design

The fob watch case is a three-piece construction made of 18K gold. The back cover is finished in translucent blue enamel applied over an engine-turned ground. At the center of the back cover sits a laurel leaf motif in paillon, centered by a rose-cut diamond. The bezels surrounding the crystal and the back are decorated with opaque white enamel, providing an appearance of half pearls.

The dial is crafted from silver and features an engine-turned surface. It is marked with radial Roman numerals to indicate the time, and the time is read using blued steel Breguet-style hands. The watch is signed by Cartier. The accompanying chain matches the watch's aesthetic, utilizing long links finished with blue enamel over engine-turning, accented by small white pearls throughout the design.

Evidence for this section
  • “Three-piece, back cover with translucent blue enamel over engine-turning, paillon laurel leaf circle centered by rose-cut diamond, bezels with opaque white enamel resembling half pearls.”
  • “Silver, engine-turned with radial Roman numerals. Blued steel Breguet hands.”
  • “Chain with long links of translucent blue enamel over engine-turning, finished with opaque white enamel, alternating with small pearls.”

Movement and Mechanical Specifications

The watch operates on a gilt brass, bar caliber movement measuring 23 mm in diameter (10 lignes). The movement is built with 15 jewels. The watch utilizes a straight-line lever escapement mechanism.

To ensure timing stability across temperature variations, the movement includes a cut bimetallic compensation balance. This is paired with a flat balance spring to regulate the oscillation of the balance wheel.

Evidence for this section
  • “23 mmø (10???)”
  • “gilt brass, bar caliber, 15 jewels”
  • “straight line lever escapement, cut bimetallic compensation balance, flat balance spring.”

Condition and Attribution

The object is attributed to Cartier, Paris, Londres, and dated to approximately 1910. The auction house has provided a condition grading system for the lot.

The watch case is rated as grade 3 (Good). The dial is rated as 3-01 (Good), and the original hands are noted as present.

Evidence for this section
  • “Cartier, Paris, Londres, circa 1910.”
  • “Case: 3 Good”
  • “Movement: 3* Good Overhaul recommended, at buyer's expense”
  • “Dial: 3-01 Good HANDS Original”

Open research questions

  • What is the specific manufacturer of the movement caliber?
  • Are there any identifiable maker's marks or hallmarks on the gold case interior?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Cartier gold and enamel fob watch with chain
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
Material18K gold, enamel, diamonds“18K gold and enamel Art Deco diamond-set extra slim keyless fob watch”
DialSilver with radial Roman numerals“Silver, engine-turned with radial Roman numerals.”
Movement15-jewel gilt brass bar caliber“gilt brass, bar caliber, 15 jewels”
EscapementStraight line lever“straight line lever escapement”
BalanceCut bimetallic compensation balance“cut bimetallic compensation balance”
Watch Diameter31 mm“Diam. 31 m”
Chain compositionTranslucent blue enamel and small pearls“Chain with long links of translucent blue enamel over engine-turning, finished with opaque white enamel, alternating with small pearls.”

Visible details

  • Blue enamel surfaces show engine-turned texture beneath
  • Case bezels are accented with opaque white enamel simulating half pearls
  • Watch dial displays radial Roman numerals
  • Chain includes small pearls as alternating elements

Research qualifications

  • Condition of the movement is described with a recommendation for overhaul
  • Specific mechanical performance is not verified beyond the stated component list

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

Cartier, Paris, Londres, circa 1910. Very fine 18K gold and enamel Art Deco diamond-set extra slim keyless fob watch, accompanied by a matching chain.

Reviewed 2026-10-26 · Record 1366287ed4

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.