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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Wristwatch · Baguette watch

Cartier Baguette Watch

Partially verified

This baguette-style watch, attributed to Cartier with a movement by Edmond Jaeger, dates to approximately 1936. The watch features a narrow rectangular case constructed from platinum, which is set with baguette-cut diamonds surrounding the dial. It is paired with a gold link bracelet that utilizes a patented 'boucle déployante' or opening buckle, a design first patented in 1909. The dial is signed 'CARTIER / FRANCE'. The object is held in the V&A collection, having been gifted by the American Friends of the V&A through the generosity of Patricia V. Goldstein.

Front view of the Cartier baguette watch featuring a diamond-set platinum case and gold link bracelet.
Front view of the Cartier baguette watch featuring a diamond-set platinum case and gold link bracelet. — Victoria and Albert Museum, London. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
collections.vam.ac.uk
Category
Wristwatch · Baguette watch
Maker / attribution
Edmond Jaeger (movement); Cartier (casing)
Reference
Not recorded
Catalogue / lot identifier
M.117-2007
Source-reported date
ca. 1936
Source-reported place
France
Source-reported serial
014157

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and Dial Design

The watch displays a narrow rectangular profile, categorised within the period as a 'baguette watch' due to its formal similarity to baguette-cut diamonds. The case is constructed of platinum and is heavily embellished with stone-set baguette-cut diamonds framing the face. The dial is finished with the signature 'CARTIER / FRANCE' designation.

The construction incorporates a gold link bracelet fitted with a 'boucle déployante' or opening buckle. This mechanical feature, intended to facilitate the secure attachment and removal of the watch, is a design protected by a patent registered in 1909.

Evidence for this section
  • “Narrow rectangular watch with gold link bracelet set with baguette-cut diamonds around the face.”
  • “The bracelet uses the 'boucle déployante', or opening buckle, which was patented in 1909.”

Signatures and Marks

The watch bears multiple inscriptions and hallmarks that assist in identifying its origin and materials. The dial confirms the Cartier branding, while the clasp features a workshop mark 'EJ' flanking an hour-glass, identifying the movement as a product of Edmond Jaeger.

Additional marks verify the material composition of the object. A serial number, 014157, is engraved on the object, with evidence of an overstrike on the final digit.

Evidence for this section
  • “Workshop mark EJ flanking an hour-glass for Edmond Jaeger”
  • “Two French eagle's head restricted warranty marks for gold”
  • “French dog's head mark for platinum”
  • “014157 (the 7 overstrikes 8)”

Provenance

The watch is part of the permanent collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum. It was acquired under the accession number M.117-2007. The item reached the collection through the support of the American Friends of the V&A, specifically credited to the generosity of Patricia V. Goldstein.

The object is documented as having been manufactured in Paris, fitting the established association between Cartier and the French capital for its production during the mid-1930s.

Evidence for this section
  • “Given by the American Friends of the V&A through the generosity of Patricia V. Goldstein”
  • “Accession number: M.117-2007”

Open research questions

  • What is the specific caliber or movement model used by Edmond Jaeger in this watch?
  • Can the overstrike on the serial number '014157' be attributed to a factory correction or later servicing?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Cartier Baguette Watch
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
MakerCartier“Cartier, Paris, ca. 1936.”
Movement MakerEdmond Jaeger“Workshop mark EJ flanking an hour-glass for Edmond Jaeger”
Dateca. 1936“ca. 1936”
Serial Number014157“014157 (the 7 overstrikes 8)”
MaterialsPlatinum, gold, diamonds“Watch with diamond-set platinum case and gold link bracelet”
Accession NumberM.117-2007“M.117-2007”
Bracelet TypeBoucle déployante“The bracelet uses the 'boucle déployante', or opening buckle, which was patented in 1909.”

Visible details

  • Narrow rectangular watch case
  • Baguette-cut diamonds framing the dial
  • Gold link bracelet
  • Signed 'CARTIER / FRANCE' on dial

Research qualifications

  • The serial number 014157 features a 7 overstriking an 8
  • The watch is attributed to Cartier with movement by Edmond Jaeger

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

Watch, Jaeger, Edmond, Paris, ca. 1936

Reviewed 2026-11-02 · Record a303047883

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.