Pocket watch · Chatelaine watch

Cartier Art Déco 'Tutti Frutti' Chatelaine Watch

Partially verified

This Art Déco chatelaine watch, signed Cartier Paris and dated circa 1925 by Christie's, features a Tutti Frutti motif set in platinum. The assembly comprises an angular brooch suspension clip fitted with a single pinstem, a tapering decorative drop, and an octagonal watch case measuring 2.1 cm in width. The piece is set with old- and single-cut diamonds, round and sugarloaf cabochon rubies, sapphires, and emeralds, alongside red enamel and onyx elements. The watch has a circular dial with an emerald center plaque, Roman numerals, and a red enamel border. The total length measures 9.0 cm, with an overall gross weight of 38.41 grams.

Front view of the Cartier Art Déco Tutti Frutti gemstone, enamel, and platinum chatelaine watch — Christie's. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source: onlineonly.christies.com
Category: Pocket watch · Chatelaine watch
Maker / attribution: Cartier
Reference: Not recorded
Catalogue / lot identifier: 255
Source-reported date: circa 1925
Country: France

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Physical Assembly and Design

This Art Déco chatelaine watch is structured in three primary segments: a suspension clip fitted with a single pinstem, a tapering drop element, and a central octagonal watch case. The total length of the assembly is 9.0 cm, with the watch case measuring 2.1 cm in width.

The design incorporates tiered sugarloaf and cabochon rubies, sapphires, and emeralds, alongside onyx elements and red enamel borders. The watch face is circular, featuring Roman numerals, a red enamel outer ring, and a ring-shaped pierced emerald center.

Evidence for this section

“Fitted with a single pinstem clipback”
“Size/Dimensions: length 9.0 cm, case width 2.1 cm, dial diameter 16.0 mm”
“ring-shaped pierced emerald, red enamel, plaque and sugarloaf cabochon onyx”

Material Composition and Markings

The assembly is constructed using platinum, which was tested by the Paris Regional Customs Authority to a fineness of 850‰. Due to the fragility of the object, the case was exempted from standard assay marking, though the pinstem carries an official French import assay mark for platinum.

The gemstone setting includes old- and single-cut diamonds alongside sugarloaf and round cabochon colored stones. The object is signed 'Cartier Paris' and is noted as 'numbered' by the source.

Evidence for this section

“French import assay mark for platinum (850‰) for pinstem”
“this lot was tested by the Paris Regional Customs Authority as platinum (850‰), but was exempted from assay marking due to fragility”
“signed Cartier Paris, numbered”

Condition and Mechanical Status

The internal mechanical movement has not been accessed by a watchmaker due to the object's fragility. The watch is not working at the time of cataloguing, and the movement has not been tested for accuracy; a service is recommended.

Reported condition includes minor abrasions to the platinum, minor chips and cracks to the gemstones, minor lacks in the enamel, and chips on the onyx. Diamonds are estimated to be G to H colour, with VS to SI clarity.

Evidence for this section

“Movement is not working at time of cataloguing. The movement has not been tested for accuracy. A service is highly recommended.”
“due to the watch’s fragility, it has not been opened by a watchmaker.”
“Diamonds: on average G to H colour, VS to SI clarity.”

Open research questions

What is the specific manufacturer or caliber of the mechanical movement concealed within the case?
Can the 'numbered' identification be verified against Cartier’s historical production ledgers?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Cartier Art Déco 'Tutti Frutti' Chatelaine Watch
Field	Source-reported value	Source quotation
Movement	Mechanical movement	“Mechanical movement, old and single-cut diamonds”
Materials	Platinum (850‰), diamonds, rubies, sapphires, emeralds, red enamel, onyx	“round and sugarloaf cabochon sapphires, round and sugarloaf cabochon rubies, round and sugarloaf cabochon emeralds, ring-shaped pierced emerald, red enamel, plaque and sugarloaf cabochon onyx, French import assay mark for platinum (850‰) for pinstem”
Signature	Cartier Paris	“signed Cartier Paris, numbered, circa 1925”
Dimensions	Length 9.0 cm, case width 2.1 cm, dial diameter 16.0 mm	“Size/Dimensions: length 9.0 cm, case width 2.1 cm, dial diameter 16.0 mm”
Gross Weight	38.41 grams	“Gross weight: 38.41 grams”
Dating	circa 1925	“circa 1925”

Visible details

U-shaped geometric Art Déco suspension clip set with diamonds and an emerald accent
Tapering drop element featuring tiered multi-colored sugarloaf and cabochon gemstones bordered by diamonds
Small circular watch face with a translucent green hexagonal or rounded emerald center plaque, Roman numerals, and an outer red enamel ring
Diamond-set octagonal watch bezel with small cabochon gemstone accents at the compass points

Research qualifications

Source condition report notes the mechanical movement was not working at the time of cataloguing and was not opened due to fragility
Specific serial number is omitted by the auctioneer, catalogued simply as 'numbered'
The case was exempted from assay marking due to fragility, though the pinstem carries a French import assay mark for platinum (850‰)

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

CARTIER MONTRE CHÂTELAINE ART DÉCO PIERRES DE COULEUR, ÉMAIL, ONYX ET DIAMANTS 'TUTTI FRUTTI', | Christie’s

Reviewed 2026-10-21 · Record 9f5e689d3b

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.