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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Restoration · 6 min

How to Clean a Pocket Watch Safely (and What Not to Do)

What an owner can safely clean on a pocket watch, what should be left to a watchmaker, and why the movement should never be cleaned at home with household products.

Start by separating the outside from the inside. The case, crystal and chain can be cleaned gently by an owner. The movement cannot. A movement needs to be taken apart, cleaned in dedicated solutions and oiled again with the correct oils. Only a watchmaker can do that job.

Case: wipe it with a soft, dry microfibre cloth. On gold or silver, a jeweller's cloth can remove light tarnish, but polish very sparingly. Every polish takes off metal and softens hallmarks, engraving and case edges. Gold-filled and plated cases can wear through to the base metal. Never use abrasive pastes or ultrasonic jewellery cleaners on a complete watch.

Crystal: glass can be wiped with a slightly damp cloth. Acrylic (plastic) crystals scratch easily, and a specialist polish can remove light marks. Do not let liquid reach the gap around the crystal bezel.

Dial: do not clean it. Enamel dials can take a very light dry dusting at most. Painted, silvered and printed metal dials can lose their markings as soon as they are touched with a damp cloth or solvent.

Movement: do not spray, oil or wash it. WD-40, lighter fluid and household oils leave residue that attracts dirt and damages pivots. If the watch has stopped or runs erratically, it needs a professional service, not a clean.

Chains: most metal chains can be cleaned with a soft brush and mild soapy water, then dried thoroughly. Keep this well away from the watch itself.