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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Component record · Keyless work

Crown

Verified

The external knurled knob, typically at the 3 o'clock edge of the case, used to wind the mainspring and set the time (and, on many watches, the date).

What it does

Provides the user's manual interface to the keyless works: turning winds or sets, and on many models pulling to defined positions selects the function.

How it works

Turning the crown rotates the stem, which — depending on its pushed or pulled position — drives either the winding train (to the ratchet wheel and mainspring) or the setting train (to the motion works and hands) via the keyless works.

Screw-down crowns, common on water-resistant watches, additionally thread onto a case tube to compress a gasket and seal the pendant when not in use, and must be unscrewed before winding or setting.

Evolution

From plain winding-only crowns to multi-position crowns (wind, date-set, time-set) on complicated watches, and to gasketed, screw-down crowns for water resistance from the mid-20th century onward.

Known variations

  • Plain push-pull crown
  • Screw-down (water-resistant) crown
  • Multi-function crown with several defined pull positions for date and time setting

Identification for collectors

  • Screw-down crowns show a knurled locking collar and require unscrewing before use
  • Wear or looseness at the crown often indicates a worn stem or case tube thread

Common failure modes

  • Stripped screw-down threads compromising water resistance
  • Worn knurling reducing grip
  • Detachment from the stem

Photographs

Cabochon on watch crown
Cabochon on watch crownJeff Muscato at English Wikipedia, Public domain. Wikimedia Commons file page
Crown and chronograph pushers of a Montblanc Timewalker wristwatch V2
Crown and chronograph pushers of a Montblanc Timewalker wristwatch V2Pittigrilli, CC BY 4.0. Wikimedia Commons file page

Photographs are illustrative examples of the type, not necessarily the exact object described. Verify details against the source file page.

Sources & references

  1. de Carle, D., Practical Watch Repairing

Where sources disagree, the disagreement is stated rather than resolved silently.