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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Wristwatch · Art deco tonneau wristwatch

Swiss 20K White Gold Art Deco Wrist Watch with Sapphire Accents

Partially verified

This Art Deco tonneau-shaped wristwatch was retailed by Canadian jeweller Henry Birks & Sons circa 1930. The piece is housed in a decorative 20K white gold case engraved with scrollwork motifs and set with eight square-cut sapphires, complemented by a sapphire cabochon crown. Its silvered dial is signed 'BIRKS' and marked 'MADE IN SWITZERLAND' along the lower perimeter, displaying stylized Arabic numerals, an inner geometric track, and blued hands. According to the seller, the watch is powered by a Swiss 17-jewel manual-wind calibre 246 movement.

Front view of the tonneau-shaped engraved 20K white gold wristwatch showing the silvered dial, sapphire accents, and cord strap
Front view of the tonneau-shaped engraved 20K white gold wristwatch showing the silvered dial, sapphire accents, and cord strap — Renaissance Antiques. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
www.renaissanceantiques.com
Category
Wristwatch · Art deco tonneau wristwatch
Maker / attribution
Henry Birks & Sons
Reference
Not recorded
Catalogue / lot identifier
SSHO 2256
Source-reported date
Circa 1930
Country
Switzerland

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and Exterior Construction

The timepiece features a tonneau-shaped case described as 20K white gold, featuring decorative engravings. The watch incorporates eight square-cut sapphires set into the bezel and lugs, alongside a sapphire-set winding crown.

The watch is mounted on a black cord strap, which passes through pierced, engraved decorative lugs.

Evidence for this section
  • “the 20K white gold case is tonneau-shaped and beautifully crafted with decorative engravings throughout”
  • “Eight strategically placed square sapphires, along with a sapphire winding crown”
  • “Faceted and engraved white gold bezel set with six square-cut blue sapphires, plus one sapphire on each openwork lug”
  • “Mounted on a black twisted cord strap threaded through pierced, engraved decorative lugs”

Dial and Timekeeping

The watch displays a silvered dial signed 'BIRKS' and printed with stylized Arabic numerals. The lower perimeter of the dial bears the text 'MADE IN SWITZERLAND'.

Time is indicated by blued hands, and the dial features an inner geometric track.

Evidence for this section
  • “original silvered Art Deco dial”
  • “Elongated tonneau-shaped silvered dial printed with stylized Art Deco Arabic numerals and signed 'BIRKS'”
  • “Lower dial edge bears visible text 'MADE IN SWITZERLAND'”

Movement and Attribution

The watch is attributed to Henry Birks & Sons of Canada, with the origin noted as Switzerland. The seller states the watch contains a 17-jewel manual-wind calibre 246 movement.

The production period is identified by the seller as circa 1930.

Evidence for this section
  • “This wonderful timepiece was crafted and retailed by Henry Birks & Sons of Canada.”
  • “A 17 jewel manual wind calibre 246 movement keeps the time”
  • “Circa 1930”

Open research questions

  • Do internal case hallmarks verify the 20K gold purity and identify the specific Swiss casemaker commissioned by Birks?
  • Does the calibre 246 movement bear markings confirming its Swiss manufacture and serial production era?
  • Are the square-cut sapphires natural or synthetic?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Swiss 20K White Gold Art Deco Wrist Watch with Sapphire Accents
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
Retailer / MakerHenry Birks & Sons“This wonderful timepiece was crafted and retailed by Henry Birks & Sons of Canada.”
Case Material20K white gold“the 20K white gold case is tonneau-shaped”
Movement17 jewel manual wind calibre 246“A 17 jewel manual wind calibre 246 movement keeps the time”
Dimensions39mm lug to lug by 16mm width“39mm Lug to Lug 16mm Width”
Stock NumberSSHO 2256“SKU: SSHO 2256”
Dimensions39mm x 16mm“39mm Lug to Lug 16mm Width”

Visible details

  • Elongated tonneau-shaped silvered dial printed with stylized Art Deco Arabic numerals and signed 'BIRKS'
  • Lower dial edge bears visible text 'MADE IN SWITZERLAND'
  • Faceted and engraved white gold bezel set with six square-cut blue sapphires, plus one sapphire on each openwork lug
  • Fluted winding crown set with a dark blue cabochon stone
  • Mounted on a black twisted cord strap threaded through pierced, engraved decorative lugs

Research qualifications

  • Internal calibre 246 movement and interior case hallmarks are not pictured in the listing
  • Stated 20K gold purity and genuine sapphire identification rely solely on dealer description

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

Swiss 20K White Gold Art Deco Wrist Watch with Sapphire Accents - Renaissance Antiques

Reviewed 2026-10-21 · Record bb82a18b38

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.

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