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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Wristwatch · Cocktail watch

Swiss 18k gold and diamond cocktail watch

Partially verified

This Swiss cocktail watch dates to circa 1960 according to the auction house, featuring an 18k yellow gold construction with flexible woven mesh straps. The central openwork case features a hinged cover set with brilliant-cut diamonds totaling approximately 0.20 carats, flanked by stylized foliate accents. Opening the cover reveals a compact round dial with baton hour markers. The watch is powered by a manual-wind 17-jewel ETA movement equipped with an Incabloc shock protection system. The underside of the case is stamped with fineness 750, along with "LOTOS", "Universal Geneve", and "Swiss made".

Full view of the open cocktail watch showing the small dial, hinged cover, and woven gold bracelet
Full view of the open cocktail watch showing the small dial, hinged cover, and woven gold bracelet — Lempertz. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
www.lempertz.com
Category
Wristwatch · Cocktail watch
Maker / attribution
Universal Genève
Reference
Not recorded
Catalogue / lot identifier
257
Source-reported date
Ca. 1960
Country
Switzerland

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Construction and Design

The cocktail watch is constructed from 18k yellow gold and features a flexible woven gold mesh bracelet with an integrated fold-over clasp. The piece measures 16 cm in total length.

The watch features a small openwork case, measuring 1.6 cm in diameter. A hinged cover is set with brilliant-cut diamonds totaling approximately 0.20 carats, which flips open to reveal the watch dial.

Evidence for this section
  • “With flexible woven gold straps and small openwork watch case set with brilliant-cut diamonds (ca. 0.20ct in total).”
  • “L 16 cm. Case: Diameter 1.6 cm.”

Mechanism and Markings

The watch is powered by a manual-wind, 17-jewel ETA movement equipped with an Incabloc shock protection system.

The underside of the case is stamped with the fineness mark '750', along with the markings 'LOTOS', 'Universal Geneve', and 'Swiss made'.

Evidence for this section
  • “Eta movement with 17 jewels and incabloc shock protection system. Hand-winding.”
  • “Stamped fineness 750, "LOTOS", "Universal Geneve", "Swiss made". (to the underside of the case).”

Dating and Documentation

The source assigns the piece a date of circa 1960.

The provided documentation does not include photographs of the movement or the interior of the case back.

Evidence for this section
  • “Ca. 1960.”

Open research questions

  • What is the significance of the 'LOTOS' mark appearing alongside the 'Universal Geneve' signature on the case?
  • Can the specific ETA movement caliber be determined from the 17-jewel description provided in the lot details?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Swiss 18k gold and diamond cocktail watch
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
MovementEta movement with 17 jewels and incabloc shock protection system. Hand-winding“Eta movement with 17 jewels and incabloc shock protection system. Hand-winding.”
Material and Fineness18k gold stamped 750“Stamped fineness 750”
GemstonesBrilliant-cut diamonds (ca. 0.20ct in total)“brilliant-cut diamonds (ca. 0.20ct in total)”
Case Diameter1.6 cm“Diameter 1.6 cm.”
Total Length16 cm“L 16 cm.”
Total Weight74.6 g“Weight 74.6 g.”
Case Markings"LOTOS", "Universal Geneve", "Swiss made"“"LOTOS", "Universal Geneve", "Swiss made". (to the underside of the case)”

Visible details

  • Hinged dome-shaped cover set with round diamonds flips open to reveal the small round dial
  • Dial features applied hour markers, two central hands, and brand text
  • Broad flexible woven gold mesh bracelet with integrated fold-over clasp
  • Decorative rope-twist border and leaf motifs framing the watch case

Research qualifications

  • Case back and movement are not depicted in the provided photograph
  • Dial script appears to read 'Lotos', while 'Universal Geneve' is stamped on the underside of the case according to the cataloguer

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

A Swiss 18k gold and diamond cocktail watch - Lot 257

Reviewed 2026-10-22 · Record b9ebcb7a45

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.

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