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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Pocket watch · Novelty purse watch

George L'Enfant 18K Gold and Jeweled Novelty Helmet Watch Case for Tiffany & Co.

Partially verified

This novelty watch case is designed in 18-karat gold as a medieval knight's helmet engraved with decorative scrollwork. The crest of the helmet is mounted with a turquoise cabochon stone set within leafy prongs, while cabochon rubies accent the visor hinges. The face guard opens to deploy a spring-loaded manual-winding watch signed by retailer Tiffany & Co. Produced in Paris by George L'Enfant circa 1960, the reverse of the concealed watch is marked 'TIFFANY & CO FRANCE 18K' alongside patent designations.

Side profile of the closed 18-karat gold knight's helmet watch case with turquoise finial
Side profile of the closed 18-karat gold knight's helmet watch case with turquoise finial — Christie's. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
onlineonly.christies.com
Category
Pocket watch · Novelty purse watch
Maker / attribution
George L'Enfant
Reference
Not recorded
Catalogue / lot identifier
950
Source-reported date
circa 1960
Source-reported place
France

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Object Identity and Construction

This novelty watch is housed in an 18-karat gold case sculpted into the form of a medieval knight’s helmet, finished with engraved scrollwork. The visor, which features pierced eye and breath openings, functions as a mechanism that opens to reveal the concealed watch.

Ornamentation includes a turquoise stone mounted on the helmet's crest, set above rope detailing, and two cabochon rubies serving as hinge pivots for the face guard.

Evidence for this section
  • “Formed as a knight's helmet engraved with scrollwork”
  • “the top mounted with a turquoise stone and with two cabochon rubies at the hinges of the face guard”
  • “the face guard opening to release the spring loaded manual movement watch”

Mechanism and Retail Markings

The internal watch is a manual-winding movement. The watch face is signed by the retailer, Tiffany & Co. The reverse of the watch is engraved with 'TIFFANY & CO FRANCE 18K' and includes the markings 'BREVETE S.G.D.G' and 'MODELE DESPOSE PATENTED'.

The piece is attributed to the French maker George L'Enfant and dated to circa 1960.

Evidence for this section
  • “the watch face signed TIFFANY & CO.”
  • “the reverse of the watch engraved TIFFANY & CO FRANCE 18K, further marked BREVETE S.G.D.G MODELE DESPOSE PATENTED”
  • “MARK OF GEORGE L'ENFANT, PARIS, CIRCA 1960”

Condition and Provenance

The source describes the object as being in 'good condition' with some minor wear and tiny scratches. Christie's does not guarantee the working order of the watch.

Provenance for this lot is listed as Annie Laurie Crawford, later Aitken (1900-1984).

Evidence for this section
  • “Overall with some minor wear and tiny scratches, good condition.”
  • “Please note Christie's does not guarantee the working order of watches.”
  • “Annie Laurie Crawford, later Aitken (1900-1984).”

Open research questions

  • What is the specific movement caliber concealed within the gold housing?
  • Does the 'BREVETE S.G.D.G' marking correspond to a specific patent held by George L'Enfant for the helmet-style opening mechanism?
  • Are there records of other Tiffany & Co. inventory numbers typically associated with George L'Enfant helmet watches from this period?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for George L'Enfant 18K Gold and Jeweled Novelty Helmet Watch Case for Tiffany & Co.
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
Maker's MarkGeorge L'Enfant“MARK OF GEORGE L'ENFANT, PARIS, CIRCA 1960”
RetailerTiffany & Co.“RETAILED BY TIFFANY & CO., NEW YORK”
Form and GemsKnight's helmet with turquoise and rubies“Formed as a knight's helmet engraved with scrollwork, the top mounted with a turquoise stone and with two cabochon rubies at the hinges of the face guard”
Movement MechanismSpring-loaded manual movement watch“the face guard opening to release the spring loaded manual movement watch”
Height1 7/8 in. (4.8 cm.) closed“1 7 ⁄ 8 in. (4.8 cm.) high, closed”
Case InscriptionsTIFFANY & CO FRANCE 18K, BREVETE S.G.D.G MODELE DESPOSE PATENTED“the reverse of the watch engraved TIFFANY & CO FRANCE 18K, further marked BREVETE S.G.D.G MODELE DESPOSE PATENTED”
Height (Closed)1 7/8 inches (4.8 cm)“1 7 ⁄ 8 in. (4.8 cm.) high, closed”
Gross Weight1 oz 12 dwt (50 grams)“1 oz. 12 dwt. (50 gr.) gross weight”

Visible details

  • Engraved scroll patterns cover the yellow gold helmet shell and visor.
  • A rounded turquoise cabochon is seated in a foliate collar on top of twisted rope detailing.
  • A small cabochon ruby is visible at the side hinge pivot.
  • Slotted eye and breath openings are pierced through the visor front.

Research qualifications

  • The watch face and internal manual movement are not visible in this closed view.
  • Christie's explicitly notes that the working order of watches is not guaranteed.

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

A FRENCH JEWELED GOLD NOVELTY WATCH CASE, MARK OF GEORGE L'ENFANT, PARIS, CIRCA 1960, RETAILED BY TIFFANY & CO., NEW YORK, 18 KARAT | Christie’s

Reviewed 2026-10-22 · Record 2e70625b40

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.