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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Wristwatch · Cocktail wristwatch

Ernest Borel Cocktail Kaleidoscope Dial Wristwatch

Partially verified

This is an Ernest Borel Cocktail manual-wind wristwatch attributed to the 1950s. The watch features a square yellow gold-plated case measuring 26.3 mm with a textured surface, fixed round bezel with stamped hour indexes, and fancy lugs. Its central visual element is a rotating black and gold kaleidoscope optical disc with red hands. The dial periphery is lettered 'BOREL' and 'Cocktail' alongside patent indications. The seller states the watch is powered by a 17-jewel unadjusted Swiss caliber 401 (FEF 401) movement visible through a display back and fitted with a black leather strap.

Front view of the 26.3 mm Ernest Borel Cocktail wristwatch with kaleidoscope disc dial and textured square case
Front view of the 26.3 mm Ernest Borel Cocktail wristwatch with kaleidoscope disc dial and textured square case — Second Hand Horology. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
secondhandhorology.com
Category
Wristwatch · Cocktail wristwatch
Maker / attribution
Ernest Borel
Reference
Not recorded
Catalogue / lot identifier
WA-4404
Source-reported date
1950s
Country
Switzerland

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case Construction and Exterior Form

The watch is cased in a square yellow gold-plated body measuring 26.3 mm across (28 mm including the crown), with a lug-to-lug length of 35.2 mm and a thickness of 11.2 mm. Visual inspection reveals fine cross-hatched or brushed texturing across the flat front bezel plate, paired with fancy lugs, and fitted with a 17 mm black genuine leather two-piece strap.

The round bezel is fixed and engraved with black enamel-filled radial hour markers. The seller listing records a case marking of 'Plaque OR 20 Microns' and states that the back features a display case back, though this feature cannot be confirmed from the front photograph alone.

Evidence for this section
  • “Cased in a beautiful 26.3mm textured yellow gold-plated square case with unique fancy lugs and a fixed bezel, the watch also has a display case back.”
  • “Case Markers: Plaque OR 20 Microns”
  • “Circular polished bezel engraved with black enamel-filled radial hour markers.”

Kaleidoscope Dial and Display Design

The centerpiece of the watch is a rotating black and gold kaleidoscope optical disc, described by the dealer as a mystery rotating dial that produces kaleidoscopic patterns as it moves. The time indicators consist of red arrow markers positioned over the rotating disc.

The periphery of the dial displays manufacturer and patent markings. As directly observed, text at the upper edge reads 'BOREL' and the lower perimeter is inscribed 'MODELE DEPOSE Cocktail SWISS PATENT'.

Evidence for this section
  • “The most incredible feature in this watch is the mystery rotating black and gold kaleidoscope dial”
  • “It also features the original and unique matching red hands.”
  • “Dial text reading 'BOREL' at top and 'MODELE DEPOSE Cocktail SWISS PATENT' at bottom.”

Reported Movement and Verification Boundaries

The movement is reported by the seller as a manual-wind Swiss caliber 401 (FEF 401) with 17 jewels, unadjusted, bearing the inscription 'Ernest Borel Seventeen 17 Jewels Swiss Cal. 401 Unadjusted'. Because the single image provided shows only the dial side, the movement caliber and inner markings have not been directly verified.

The seller dates the watch to the 1950s, mentioning that the Cocktail Watch model was patented in 1952 and introduced in 1953, continuing production through circa 1980. However, no individual serial number or factory archive reference is cited in the source to confirm the exact manufacturing year of this specific piece.

Evidence for this section
  • “powered with an original Ernest Borel mechanical movement, caliber 401 (FEF 401) featuring 17 jewels, unadjusted, Swiss made.”
  • “Movement: Ernest Borel Seventeen 17 Jewels Swiss Cal. 401 Unadjusted”
  • “This watch was patented in 1952 and introduced in 1953.”

Open research questions

  • What reference or case-back serial numbers are present to narrow the approximate 1950s date to a specific production year?
  • Does direct visual inspection of the movement through the display back confirm the caliber 401 (FEF 401) stamps and jewel count?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Ernest Borel Cocktail Kaleidoscope Dial Wristwatch
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
Movement CaliberCaliber 401 (FEF 401)“powered with an original Ernest Borel mechanical movement, caliber 401 (FEF 401) featuring 17 jewels”
Case Size26.3 mm“Cased in a beautiful 26.3mm textured yellow gold-plated square case”
Case MarkingPlaque OR 20 Microns“Case Markers: Plaque OR 20 Microns”
StrapHadley-Roma black genuine leather two-piece strap“brand-new black Hadley-Roma genuine leather two-piece strap”
Case Thickness11.2 mm“Case Thickness 11.2”

Visible details

  • Square yellow gold-plated case with fine cross-hatched or brushed texturing on the front flat bezel plate.
  • Circular polished bezel engraved with black enamel-filled radial hour markers.
  • Central kaleidoscope dial featuring a rotating geometric black and gold optical disc.
  • Red arrow indicators serving as hands against the rotating disc pattern.
  • Dial text reading 'BOREL' at top and 'MODELE DEPOSE Cocktail SWISS PATENT' at bottom.
  • Fitted with a black leather two-piece strap.

Research qualifications

  • The internal caliber 401 movement and rear display case back mentioned in the dealer's description are not visible in the supplied front photograph.
  • The 1950s production date is dealer-reported and not backed by a specific year or serial reference.

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

1950s ERNEST BOREL Cocktail Watch Kaleidoscope Dial 26mm Swiss Wristwa – SECOND HAND HOROLOGY

Reviewed 2026-10-21 · Record 62f43c1bfe

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.

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