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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Wristwatch · Automatic dress watch

Cartier 'Fancy Lug' Automatic Dress Watch

Partially verified

This Cartier 'Fancy Lug' automatic dress watch dates to circa 1958. It is constructed from 14k yellow gold and measures approximately 33mm in diameter. The design features a stepped case with stylized lugs and a caseback secured by a steel ring. The sunburst gold dial is equipped with faceted applied indices and is signed 'Cartier' on the upper half and 'Automatic' on the lower half. The watch is powered by an automatic-winding movement that includes a Cartier-signed rotor. The caseback is also signed by Cartier. According to the source, the watch was manufactured by the New York-based firm Bulova, which operated as a subcontractor for Cartier during this period. The watch shows evidence of surface wear and polishing consistent with age while maintaining original factory finishing.

Front view of the Cartier 'Fancy Lug' automatic dress watch showing the sunburst gold dial, applied indices, and stylized lugs.
Front view of the Cartier 'Fancy Lug' automatic dress watch showing the sunburst gold dial, applied indices, and stylized lugs. — Oliver & Clarke. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
oliverandclarke.com
Category
Wristwatch · Automatic dress watch
Maker / attribution
Cartier
Reference
Not recorded
Catalogue / lot identifier
Source URL identifies the listing
Source-reported date
circa 1958
Source-reported place
United States

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and Dial Design

The watch is housed in a 14k yellow gold case measuring approximately 33mm in diameter. Its construction is characterized by a stepped profile and distinctive stylized fancy lugs. The assembly includes a caseback secured by a steel ring. The overall exterior shows signs of normal wear and polishing from age, while the vendor notes the retention of the factory-applied finishing.

The dial exhibits a sunburst gold finish and is appointed with faceted applied indices. It displays the Cartier signature in black ink on the top portion and the word 'Automatic' printed on the lower half. The dial is reported to be in good condition.

Evidence for this section
  • “fashioned out of 14k yellow gold”
  • “features a 'stepped' case construction with stylized 'fancy' lugs, a caseback secured by a steel ring”
  • “The sunburst gold dial inside has lovely faceted applied indices and is in outstanding, virtually flawless condition.”

Movement and Manufacturer Details

The timepiece is driven by an automatic-winding movement. A notable feature is the oscillating weight, which is signed by Cartier. The watch originates from a period when Cartier subcontracted production to various manufacturers to meet demand for their timepieces.

The vendor identifies the manufacturer of this specific example as the New York-based brand Bulova, dating the production to approximately 1958.

Evidence for this section
  • “Manufactured by New York-based Bulova in circa 1958”
  • “The movement within is automatic-winding and has a Cartier-signed rotor.”
  • “Cartier subcontracted a handful of other brands to produce watches for them: Movado, Piaget, Bulova, etc.”

Signatures and Markings

The watch identifies as a Cartier product through several markings. The dial bears the Cartier signature in black text, positioned above the center of the watch face. The automatic rotor within the movement is also signed by the brand.

Additionally, the caseback features the Cartier signature along with various technical specifications related to the watch's construction.

Evidence for this section
  • “bears the "Cartier" signature rendered in black on the top half”
  • “The movement within is automatic-winding and has a Cartier-signed rotor.”
  • “The caseback is also signed Cartier along with various specifications.”

Open research questions

  • What specific caliber of movement is used in this Bulova-manufactured Cartier watch?
  • Can the specific Bulova subcontracting period for Cartier be verified through production records or hallmark data?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Cartier 'Fancy Lug' Automatic Dress Watch
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
Material14k yellow gold“fashioned out of 14k yellow gold”
ManufacturerBulova“Manufactured by New York-based Bulova in circa 1958”
Case diameterApproximately 33mm“comes in at approximately 33mm in diameter”
Dial detailsSunburst gold finish with faceted applied indices“The sunburst gold dial inside has lovely faceted applied indices”

Visible details

  • Case features stepped construction with stylized fancy lugs
  • Sunburst gold dial with faceted applied hour indices
  • Caseback secured by a steel ring
  • Crown located on the right side of the case

Research qualifications

  • The exact movement caliber is not specified
  • The specific manufacturing arrangement between Bulova and Cartier for this model is not documented beyond the vendor's claim

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

ساعت مچی کارتیه Cartier 'Fancy Lug' اتوماتیک طلای ۱۴ عیار

Reviewed 2026-11-02 · Record 7ee66a0a3c

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.

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