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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Wristwatch · Power reserve dress watch

Baume & Mercier 18k Rose Gold Spillman Case Wristwatch

Partially verified

This mid-century dress watch by Baume & Mercier features an 18k rose gold case that the seller reports was made by Spillmann. The textured dial incorporates alternating Arabic numerals and index markers, dauphine hands, a sweep seconds hand, and an aperture below the 12 o'clock position showing a red power reserve indicator. The seller states the timepiece is powered by a 17-jewel Felsa 699 automatic mechanical movement providing approximately 44 hours of power reserve. The case measures 35 mm in diameter with an 18 mm lug width and is paired with a brown leather strap.

Front view of the Baume & Mercier 18k rose gold automatic wristwatch on a brown leather strap
Front view of the Baume & Mercier 18k rose gold automatic wristwatch on a brown leather strap — Vintage Watch Specialist. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
vintagewatchspecialist.com
Category
Wristwatch · Power reserve dress watch
Maker / attribution
Baume & Mercier
Reference
3128 - 117483
Catalogue / lot identifier
vws4273
Source-reported date
c.1950s
Country
Switzerland

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case Construction

The watch is housed in an 18k rose gold case measuring 35 mm in diameter with an 18 mm lug width. The seller identifies the case as being manufactured by Spillmann.

The case back is reported to feature the engravings 'Waterproof Non Magnetic Incabloc Automatic' along with reference numbers 3128 and 117483. The internal case condition is not visible in the provided source material.

Evidence for this section
  • “Presented in an elegant 18k rose gold Spillmann-made case”
  • “The case back retains its original engravings, including “Waterproof Non Magnetic Incabloc Automatic,” alongside the reference numbers 3128 and 117483.”
  • “Width 35mm”
  • “Lug width 18mm”

Dial and Complications

The dial features a silvered finish with a vertically brushed central zone and an outer wavy guilloché track. Indices include alternating Arabic numerals and baton markers.

The watch is equipped with dauphine-style hour and minute hands and a central sweep seconds hand. A curved power reserve aperture with a red indicator is located beneath the 12 o'clock position.

Evidence for this section
  • “The dial features an outer wavy guilloché track with even Arabic numerals and baton markers, and a vertically brushed central zone.”
  • “A curved power reserve aperture with a red indicator is positioned under the brand lettering beneath 12 o'clock.”
  • “Fitted with dauphine-style hour and minute hands and a central sweep seconds hand.”

Movement

The timepiece is powered by a 17-jewel Felsa 699 automatic mechanical movement, which the seller states provides a power reserve of approximately 44 hours.

The movement is not visible in the provided source imagery.

Evidence for this section
  • “Powered by the respected Felsa 699 automatic movement”
  • “Calibre Felsa 699”
  • “Power Reserve 44 Hours”

Open research questions

  • What specific hallmarks are present on the case to support the attribution to the Spillmann case-making firm?
  • Does the serial number 117483 correlate with Baume & Mercier production records for the 1950s?
  • Are there verifiable examples of this specific reference 3128 with the Felsa 699 movement in period literature?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Baume & Mercier 18k Rose Gold Spillman Case Wristwatch
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
Case Material18K Rose Gold“Case 18K Rose Gold”
Movement CalibreFelsa 699“Calibre Felsa 699”
Jewels17 jewels“Jewels 17j”
Case Width35mm“Width 35mm”
Model Reference3128 - 117483“Model Ref 3128 - 117483”
Estimated Datec. 1950s“Date of Issue c.1950s”
CrystalPlexiglass“Crystal Plexiglass”

Visible details

  • A curved power reserve aperture with a red indicator is positioned under the brand lettering beneath 12 o'clock.
  • The dial features an outer wavy guilloché track with even Arabic numerals and baton markers, and a vertically brushed central zone.
  • Fitted with dauphine-style hour and minute hands and a central sweep seconds hand.

Research qualifications

  • Movement and case back are not visible in the provided image.
  • Spillmann case maker attribution is stated by the seller and cannot be independently verified from the dial view alone.

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

Baume & Mercier - 18k Rose Gold - Spillman Case - c.1950s – Vintage Watch Specialist

Reviewed 2026-10-25 · Record 254d03fe92

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.