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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Wristwatch · Art deco cocktail wristwatch

Art Deco diamond wristwatch, circa 1925

Partially verified

Catalogued as Art Deco dating to circa 1925, this diamond-set wristwatch features a tonneau-shaped dial painted with black numerals. The bezel is flanked by a fan-shaped, two-row diamond border joined by a square-shaped diamond to three-row brilliant-cut diamond connecting links, which attach to a metallic mesh strap. The auction house reports the reverse is engraved 'Helen Taft New York' with provenance from the collection of Helen Louise Taft, First Lady of the United States.

Art Deco diamond-set wristwatch with mesh strap, circa 1925
Art Deco diamond-set wristwatch with mesh strap, circa 1925 — Sloane Street Auctions. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
www.the-saleroom.com
Category
Wristwatch · Art deco cocktail wristwatch
Maker / attribution
Not established
Reference
Not recorded
Catalogue / lot identifier
29
Source-reported date
circa 1925
Country
Not established

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Dial and Case Construction

The catalogued watch features a tonneau-shaped dial painted with black numerals, with visible observations noting two central hands and a light dial surface. Flanking the case is a fan-shaped, two-row diamond border.

Connecting the case head to the bracelet are diamond elements catalogued as a square-shaped diamond and three-row brilliant-cut diamond connecting links. Visible inspection records a fine woven metallic mesh bracelet terminating in clasp fittings.

Evidence for this section
  • “the tonneau shaped dial painted with black numerals”
  • “fan shaped two row diamond border with square shaped diamond and three row brilliant cut diamond connecting links.”
  • “Light dial with black Arabic numerals and two central hands.”
  • “Fine woven metallic mesh bracelet terminating in clasp fittings.”

Reported Inscription and Provenance

The auction catalogue records that the reverse of the piece is engraved 'Helen Taft New York'. This engraving is not visible in the provided photograph.

The description provides provenance stated as 'Ex collection Helen Louise Taft, First Lady of the United States (1861-1943)'. No further documentation, sales history, or institutional records are detailed in the source text.

Evidence for this section
  • “Engraved on the reverse 'Helen Taft New York'”
  • “Provenance: Ex collection Helen Louise Taft, First Lady of the United States (1861-1943)”

Cataloguing Details and Omissions

The auctioneer dates the wristwatch to the Art Deco period, circa 1925, and titles it as an elegant diamond wristwatch.

Details regarding the movement caliber, metal purity or hallmarks, casemaker, and watchmaker identity are not recorded in the source catalogue description.

Evidence for this section
  • “Art Deco, circa 1925”
  • “An elegant diamond wristwatch”

Open research questions

  • What movement caliber is fitted inside the watch, and does it bear any manufacturer or import stamps?
  • What metal hallmarks or fineness marks are present on the case and mesh bracelet?
  • What documentary provenance connects this specific watch to Helen Louise Taft beyond the reverse engraving cited by the auction house?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Art Deco diamond wristwatch, circa 1925
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
Periodcirca 1925“Art Deco, circa 1925”
Dial descriptionTonneau shaped dial with black numerals“the tonneau shaped dial painted with black numerals”
Gem settingFan-shaped two-row diamond border with square and brilliant-cut links“fan shaped two row diamond border with square shaped diamond and three row brilliant cut diamond connecting links.”
EngravingHelen Taft New York“Engraved on the reverse 'Helen Taft New York'”
ProvenanceEx collection Helen Louise Taft, First Lady of the United States (1861-1943)“Provenance: Ex collection Helen Louise Taft, First Lady of the United States (1861-1943)”

Visible details

  • Tonneau-shaped case set with stepped fan-style diamond borders.
  • Geometric three-row diamond links connecting the watch head to the bracelet.
  • Fine woven metallic mesh bracelet terminating in clasp fittings.
  • Light dial with black Arabic numerals and two central hands.

Research qualifications

  • Movement caliber, metal purity, and maker signatures are unrecorded in the catalogue description.
  • The engraved case back and movement are not shown in the provided photograph.
  • Provenance attribution relies solely on the source catalogue description.

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

Art Deco, circa 1925 An elegant diamond wristwatch, the tonneau shaped dial painted with black nu

Reviewed 2026-10-21 · Record f3e96dcd3f

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.