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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Pocket watch · Full hunter pocket watch

Swiss 14K Gold Guilloché Enamel Pocket Watch with Diamonds and Pearls

Partially verified

This Swiss-made ladies' full hunter pocket watch dates to the period between 1890 and 1905. The watch is constructed from 14K gold, identified by the Swiss squirrel assay mark and a .585 fineness stamp. Its case measures one inch in diameter and features translucent red guilloché enamel applied over an engine-turned ground. The front cover displays a floral spray motif executed in yellow gold and tied with a ribbon, which is set with rose-cut diamonds in silver-topped settings. A border of natural seed pearls frames the cover. The timepiece includes a 20-inch decorative necklace chain composed of red enamel tubular links and pearl accents. The dial is white enamel with Roman numerals and pierced gilt hands. The watch weighs 25.6 grams and was reported to be in working condition at the time of inspection, including a safety chain for the associated necklace.

The obverse side of the ladies' full hunter pocket watch, showing the red guilloché enamel, diamond-set floral motif, seed pearl border, and the integrated tubular link chain.
The obverse side of the ladies' full hunter pocket watch, showing the red guilloché enamel, diamond-set floral motif, seed pearl border, and the integrated tubular link chain. — Akiba Galleries. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
orbiscollectibles.com
Category
Pocket watch · Full hunter pocket watch
Maker / attribution
Not established
Reference
Not recorded
Catalogue / lot identifier
Source URL identifies the listing
Source-reported date
1890–1905
Source-reported place
Switzerland

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case Design and Ornamentation

The watch is presented in a ladies' full hunter configuration, characterized by a gold case with decorative enamel and precious stone embellishments. The exterior of the front cover is decorated with a red translucent guilloché enamel, which is worked over an engine-turned ground to create a textured appearance. Centered on this red enamel is a yellow gold floral spray motif, which is secured by a ribbon element.

The floral motif is set with rose-cut diamonds held within silver-topped settings. The perimeter of the case is surrounded by a continuous border of natural seed pearls. In addition to the watch case, the object includes a decorative chain measuring 20 inches in length, which features matching red enamel tubular links and supplemental pearl accents.

Evidence for this section
  • “The case features a sophisticated design of translucent red guilloché enamel over an engine-turned ground.”
  • “The front cover is embellished with a yellow gold floral spray tied with a ribbon, which is intricately set with rose-cut diamonds in period silver-topped settings.”
  • “A continuous border of natural seed pearls encircles the cover”
  • “The watch is suspended from a decorative chain featuring matching red enamel tubular links and pearl accents.”

Dial and Technical Specifications

The internal dial is composed of white enamel and features Roman numerals to indicate the hours. Time is displayed via pierced gilt hands. The watch maintains a diameter of one inch and has a total weight of 25.6 grams. It includes a safety chain, which facilitates its attachment to the accompanying necklace.

The watch is of Swiss origin and was recorded as being in working order at the time of the source inspection. The construction utilizes 14K gold, as indicated by the presence of specific assay markings on the case.

Evidence for this section
  • “The white enamel dial is accented with Roman numerals and pierced gilt hands.”
  • “case diameter of one inch”
  • “The watch weighs 25.6 grams”
  • “was functional at the time of inspection.”

Hallmarks and Attribution

The watch is attributed to the period of 1890 to 1905. The case carries official Swiss hallmarks, including the Swiss squirrel assay mark, which denotes the gold content.

In addition to the assay mark, the case displays a Swiss case maker's responsibility mark. While these marks provide evidence of the watch's regional origin and material composition, the specific workshop or manufacturer responsible for the production of the piece remains unidentified.

Evidence for this section
  • “dating from 1890 to 1905”
  • “The case displays the Swiss squirrel assay mark indicating .585 fineness and a Swiss case maker's responsibility mark.”

Open research questions

  • Which specific Swiss case maker is associated with the responsibility mark found on the case?
  • Can the origin of the seed pearls be confirmed as natural via professional appraisal?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Swiss 14K Gold Guilloché Enamel Pocket Watch with Diamonds and Pearls
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
Weight25.6 grams“The watch weighs 25.6 grams”
Case Diameter1 inch“case diameter of one inch”
Chain Length20 inches“with a 20-inch necklace chain”
Assay MarksSwiss squirrel mark, .585 fineness“The case displays the Swiss squirrel assay mark indicating .585 fineness and a Swiss case maker's responsibility mark.”
Functional StatusFunctional at inspection“was functional at the time of inspection.”

Visible details

  • Red guilloché enamel case surface
  • Floral design with rose-cut diamonds
  • Outer border of natural seed pearls
  • Decorative matching enamel and pearl necklace chain

Research qualifications

  • Specific maker not identified despite presence of a case maker's mark
  • Natural origin of seed pearls not verified by independent analysis
  • Exact date of manufacture restricted to a broad 15-year range

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

Swiss 14k gold guilloché enamel pocket watch with diamonds and pearls

Reviewed 2026-11-02 · Record a057ddc5c5

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.

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