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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Wristwatch · Anti-magnetic wristwatch

Patek Philippe Calatrava Anti-Magnetic Ref. 3418

Partially verified

This 1957 Patek Philippe Calatrava Anti-Magnetic wristwatch, reference 3418, features a silver dial co-signed by the retailer Beyer and a stainless steel, four-piece waterproof case. The case, designed by Jean Vallon, supports an integrated stainless steel 'Milanese-style' mesh bracelet manufactured by Cornu & Cie, as well as convertible strap bars for standard leather straps. The watch includes an Extract from the Archives confirming the 1957 manufacturing date and 1959 sale date. The provenance is associated with the Zurich retailer Beyer.

Front view of the Patek Philippe Calatrava Anti-Magnetic Ref. 3418 featuring the silver Beyer co-branded dial and Milanese-style mesh bracelet.
Front view of the Patek Philippe Calatrava Anti-Magnetic Ref. 3418 featuring the silver Beyer co-branded dial and Milanese-style mesh bracelet. — Craft & Tailored. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
craftandtailored.com
Category
Wristwatch · Anti-magnetic wristwatch
Maker / attribution
Patek Philippe
Reference
3418
Catalogue / lot identifier
PPC3418-2
Source-reported date
1958-1962 (Production dates provided in source for Ref. 3418; Record states 1957, which is only the manufacturing date of this specific unit per Archive Extract).
Source-reported place
Switzerland
Source-reported serial
26XXXXX / 72XXXX

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and Bracelet Construction

The watch features a four-piece waterproof stainless steel case engineered by Jean Vallon. This construction design allows for a lugless aesthetic that facilitates the use of an integrated mesh bracelet or a leather strap via provided convertible strap bars. The caseback is a screw-down type and features an inventory number engraved along the edge.

Accompanying the watch is a stainless steel 'Milanese-style' mesh bracelet manufactured by Cornu & Cie. The auction description reports that the bracelet has been sized to fit wrists between 5.5 and 7.25 inches. The bracelet is noted as fully operational, though it displays characteristics of light use, including minor warping and edge wear.

Evidence for this section
  • “unique four-piece waterproof case construction made by Jean Vallon”
  • “The patented case design allowed for a watch case without lugs to employ either a leather strap or an integrated bracelet”
  • “stainless steel mesh ‘Milanese-style’ bracelets were made by Cornu & Cie”

Dial and Retailer Signature

The silver dial is distinguished by recessed, engraved hour markers which are noted to provide depth. The dial serves as a point of provenance, bearing the signature of the Zurich-based retailer Beyer positioned above the running seconds sub-dial at the six o'clock position.

The dial is described as being in well-preserved condition. The stainless steel hands show indications of age-related oxidation, though they are reported to remain in excellent condition.

Evidence for this section
  • “silver "Beyer" co-branded dial”
  • “The recessed, or engraved, hour markers are unique for the brand and help create a delightful depth for the dial”
  • “co-signature above the running seconds hand and the inventory number engraved along the edge of the caseback, this watch was originally retailed by Beyer”

Movement and Technical Engineering

This movement was specifically engineered to operate in environments with constant exposure to magnetic fields, utilizing non-magnetic metals including gold or beryllium for the lever escapement.

The caliber 12-400 AM integrates a Nivarox hairspring to mitigate the influence of magnetic interference up to 450 oersteds. While the auction description reports that the watch is operating, the service history remains unknown.

Evidence for this section
  • “Their first “true” anti-magnetic movement, the caliber 12-400 AM (AM meaning anti-magnetic), debuted in 1958”
  • “Patek Philippe's anti-magnetic movements use non-magnetic precious metals like gold for the most delicate parts, such as the anchor and escape wheel”
  • “models labeled as the "first series" will employ the 12-400 AM movement”

Open research questions

  • What is the specific nature of the inventory number engraved on the caseback in relation to Beyer's historical stock records?
  • Are there archival records confirming the specific number of 3418 watches originally delivered to Beyer?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Patek Philippe Calatrava Anti-Magnetic Ref. 3418
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
Manufacturing Date1957“shows the year of manufacture as 1957”
Case MakerJean Vallon“unique four-piece waterproof case construction made by Jean Vallon”
Bracelet MakerCornu & Cie“stainless steel mesh ‘Milanese-style’ bracelets were made by Cornu & Cie”
RetailerBeyer“originally retailed by Beyer”
Movement12-400 AM“models labeled as the "first series" will employ the 12-400 AM movement”

Visible details

  • Silver dial features recessed, engraved hour markers
  • Co-signature 'BEYER' located above the running seconds sub-dial
  • Original crown signed with Patek Philippe Calatrava cross
  • Integrated Milanese-style mesh bracelet with evidence of minor wear along the right edge

Research qualifications

  • Service history is unknown
  • Only about 40 examples have been confirmed to exist, suggesting rarity but requiring further verification of current population

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.