Skip to content
The Encyclopedia of Horology

Wristwatch · Dress wristwatch

Cartier Must Tank brown dial wristwatch, small model

Partially verified

This 20th-century women's Cartier Must Tank wristwatch features a rectangular vermeil case measuring 20 mm across excluding the crown. The plain brown enameled dial is signed 'must de Cartier' beneath 12 o'clock, with an interlocking double-C logo above 6 o'clock and 'SWISS' marked along the lower edge. Gold-tone sword hands indicate time without hour markers. According to the seller, it is equipped with a hand-wound mechanical movement serviced in September 2026. The watch is fitted with an unsigned brown imitation teju calfskin strap and a gold-plated Cartier pin buckle, and the beaded crown is set with a dark cabochon.

Front view of the Cartier Must Tank vermeil wristwatch showing the brown dial, gold-tone hands, and cabochon crown
Front view of the Cartier Must Tank vermeil wristwatch showing the brown dial, gold-tone hands, and cabochon crown — PZ Timepieces & Fine Art. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
www.proantic.com
Category
Wristwatch · Dress wristwatch
Maker / attribution
Cartier
Reference
Ref_1095
Catalogue / lot identifier
1829752
Source-reported date
20th century
Country
Switzerland

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and External Features

This Cartier Must Tank is identified by the seller as a 20th-century small-model wristwatch. It features a rectangular vermeil case, described as gold-plated silver, measuring 20 mm in diameter excluding the crown. The beaded crown is set with a dark cabochon.

The watch is fitted with an unsigned brown imitation teju calfskin strap and a gold-plated Cartier pin buckle. The seller notes the presence of minor marks on the case and characterizes the overall condition as good to very good.

Evidence for this section
  • “Diameter 20 mm excluding the crown.”
  • “Vermeil case (gold-plated silver).”
  • “Rectangular vermeil case with polished brancards and a beaded crown set with a dark cabochon”
  • “minor marks on the case”

Dial Configuration

The dial is a plain brown enameled surface without numeral markers. Branding includes gilt 'must de Cartier' lettering beneath the 12 o'clock position and an interlocking double-C logo above 6 o'clock. The time is indicated by two gold-tone sword-shaped hands.

The seller notes a tiny micro-scratch on the dial at the 7 o'clock position.

Evidence for this section
  • “Brown enameled plain dial (no craquelure).”
  • “Gold-tone sword-shaped hands.”
  • “a tiny micro-scratch on the dial at 7 o’clock”

Movement and Maintenance Notes

The timepiece is equipped with a hand-wound mechanical movement. The seller reports that the watch was serviced in September 2026. The watch is not water-resistant.

The seller states that their watches are inspected and refurbished, noting that dials may be restored by a master craftsman or replaced with service dials as part of their refurbishment process.

Evidence for this section
  • “Hand-wound mechanical movement, serviced in September 2026.”
  • “Cartier did not design this watch to be water-resistant”
  • “In addition, when necessary, the dials are restored by a master craftsman. It is also possible that the dials have been replaced in the past with service dials as part of the refurbishment process for our watches.”

Open research questions

  • What is the specific movement caliber used in this reference?
  • Do the case back hallmarks confirm the original vermeil composition?
  • Is there documentation verifying the service date of September 2026?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Cartier Must Tank brown dial wristwatch, small model
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
Case materialVermeil (gold-plated silver)“Vermeil case (gold-plated silver).”
Case width20 mm excluding the crown“Diameter 20 mm excluding the crown.”
Movement typeHand-wound mechanical“Hand-wound mechanical movement”
Dial descriptionBrown enameled plain dial“Brown enameled plain dial (no craquelure).”
Period20th century“Period: 20th century”
Case materialVermeil (gold-plated silver)“Vermeil case (gold-plated silver).”
Movement typeHand-wound mechanical“Hand-wound mechanical movement”
Case width20 mm“Diameter 20 mm excluding the crown.”

Visible details

  • Rectangular vermeil case with polished brancards and a beaded crown set with a dark cabochon
  • Plain dark brown dial without numeral markers, featuring gilt 'must de Cartier' and logo lettering
  • Two gold-tone sword-shaped central hands for hours and minutes

Research qualifications

  • Movement caliber and case back inscriptions are not visible in the provided image
  • Source notes dealer practices of dial restoration or replacement across stock, though this specific dial is described as plain brown enameled

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

Proantic: Cartier Watch - Must Tank - Brown Dial - Mechanical - Small

Reviewed 2026-10-25 · Record 790fe29185

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.

Other dress wristwatch records