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The Encyclopedia of Horology

Wristwatch · Tank wristwatch

Cartier Must de Cartier Tank Vermeil Large

Partially verified

This wristwatch is a Must de Cartier Tank, produced in the large size. The watch belongs to the Must de Cartier collection, which the source dates to the late 1970s. It is housed in a gold vermeil case and features a manually wound movement. The dial is a gold applique design, characterized by layered geometric elements. The watch is equipped with Cartier's signature blued-steel hands and a sapphire cabochon crown. It is currently fitted with a brown leather strap. The piece reflects the design language of the Tank model, with the addition of a specific dial execution intended to provide a distinct visual effect within the collection. The construction emphasizes the use of vermeil, a gold-plated silver material, consistent with the Must de Cartier line's intent to provide more accessible versions of the house's established designs while maintaining the recognizable rectangular aesthetic.

Front view of the Cartier Must de Cartier Tank Vermeil watch with gold applique dial and brown leather strap.
Front view of the Cartier Must de Cartier Tank Vermeil watch with gold applique dial and brown leather strap. — Analog:Shift. Rights pending — permission not yet requested. Original source

Catalogue identity

Source
analogshift.com
Category
Wristwatch · Tank wristwatch
Maker / attribution
Cartier
Reference
AS12674
Catalogue / lot identifier
Source URL identifies the listing
Source-reported date
circa late 1970s
Source-reported place
Not established

Source-reported attribution and specifications are not independent authentication. A listing does not establish present ownership, current display, availability or permission to reproduce.

Object description

Case and Dial

The watch features a rectangular gold vermeil case, following the established design lines of the Tank model. The case construction utilizes a classic aesthetic with integrated lugs and a sapphire cabochon set into the winding crown.

The dial is distinguished by a gold applique design with layered geometric elements. This layout creates a framing effect intended to add depth to the display. The hour markers are represented by Roman numerals at the twelve and six o'clock positions, complemented by blued-steel hands that provide contrast against the gold-tone dial surface.

Evidence for this section
  • “Housed in a gold vermeil case”
  • “features a captivating gold applique dial whose layered geometric design”
  • “Cartier's signature blued-steel hands sweep across the dial”
  • “The classic sapphire cabochon crown remains present”

Movement and Collection Context

The Must de Cartier collection was established in the late 1970s to offer more accessible versions of Cartier designs. This specific watch utilizes a manually wound movement, a feature noted for its mechanical appeal within the context of vintage Must de Cartier models.

The watch represents an example of the brand's experimentation during this era. While the Tank geometry is retained, the decorative dial elements distinguish it from the monochromatic options often associated with the Must de Cartier line.

Evidence for this section
  • “introduced in the late 1970s as a more accessible expression of Cartier's most famous designs”
  • “inside beats a manually wound movement”
  • “Pieces like this remind us just how creative Cartier was willing to be when given the freedom to experiment”

Design Significance

The Tank watch has been part of the Cartier inventory since 1917. The Must de Cartier variation maintained the core geometry of the original design while allowing for creative dial configurations.

This version incorporates a dial design that utilizes layered geometric shapes to create dimension. The design retains the clean elegance of the Tank series while offering a variant distinct from standard executions of the period.

Evidence for this section
  • “Since its introduction in 1917, its clean geometry and architectural lines have remained remarkably unchanged”
  • “transforms the familiar Tank into something altogether more playful and expressive”
  • “retaining the clean elegance that has always defined the model”

Open research questions

  • What is the specific movement caliber used in this reference?
  • Are there production records confirming the range of years this specific dial execution was manufactured?

Source evidence

Recorded claims and source quotations for Cartier Must de Cartier Tank Vermeil Large
FieldSource-reported valueSource quotation
MakerCartier“Vendor: Cartier”
CollectionMust de Cartier“This particular example comes from the celebrated Must de Cartier collection”
Introduction periodLate 1970s“introduced in the late 1970s”
Case materialGold vermeil“Housed in a gold vermeil case”
Winding mechanismManual“inside beats a manually wound movement”
Dial featuresGold applique“features a captivating gold applique dial”
HandsBlued-steel“Cartier's signature blued-steel hands”
CrownSapphire cabochon“The classic sapphire cabochon crown remains present”

Visible details

  • Gold vermeil rectangular case
  • Layered geometric gold-tone applique dial
  • Blued-steel hands
  • Sapphire cabochon crown

Research qualifications

  • The specific date of manufacture is not provided, only a collection introduction period
  • The movement's mechanical specifications or calibers are not described in detail
  • No serial numbers are provided to verify individual production data

Photograph identity and source facts were screened before import; rights clearance remains pending.

Consulted source

ساعت مچی Cartier Must de Cartier Tank Vermeil سایز بزرگ

Reviewed 2026-11-02 · Record 44d548345d

Terms in this record

Glossary explanations for terms named in this object’s record.

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